Happy Presidents Day (Feb 16!) to my American readers! Rather than buying a new car or mattress, I thought I’d share a post about the bailiwick of one of our most famous presidents — Abraham Lincoln.
Chicago, the U.S.’s “Second City” is frequently overshadowed by its more renowned elder cousin, New York and is sometimes snidely referred to as “flyover country” by people shuttling from coast to coast. But while the Windy City is worth its own post (or several), I thought I’d focus on a place that few people outside of the State of Illinois consider — Springfield, the heart of Abraham Lincoln country and a place that is not only the seat of State government, but also a place where living history is suspended in time.
My close friends know that despite holding a driver’s license for two decades or so, I’ve acceded to my inner cheapskate envrionmentalist and vowed not to own a car for as long as I can. (My next milestone is 40 years old and looks promising so far.) But one of the challenging things about living in the Midwest is that while Chicago’s public transportation is excellent (between bus, “El” and commuter train you can pretty much get to anywhere from anywhere), to explore further environs, you need to drive. But one Columbus Day (one of the U.S.’s many three -day weekends) I realized that Springfield – an approx. four train ride away — was a perfect destination.
One of the best things about Springfield is that EVERYTHING is walkable. Even my hotel, the State House Inn, was only two blocks away from the train station (and smack in the middle of Springfield’s historic attractions.)
If you’re not a big walker, Springfield Mass Transportation offers a convenient historic sites bus route where a $3 day pass allows you unlimited rides on public buses that run 15- 30 minutes apart.
Transit map courtesy of Springfield Mass Transit District accessed from http://www.smtd.org/pdf/historical.pdf in February, 2015.
For a weekend trip, I recommend catching a Friday evening train out of Chicago’s Union station to maximize your time. Trains are frequently delayed because passenger trains vie for track space with massive freight cars, but there is a lot to read up on during your journey! Here’s an easy to do weekend itinerary.
Day 1
Start the day with a visit to the Old State Capitol. This hallowed is site of the famous Lincoln-Douglas debates that were instrumental in cementing Abraham Lincoln’s position in the national political scene, as well as his passionate “A House Divided” speech. Thirty-minute guided tours provide an excellent overview of how politics worked (and looked) in the mid-19th century.
Cross the plaza and pop into the Lincoln-Herndon Law Offices which are overlooked by many tourists. (They appear to be closed at present for renovations — which is a good reminder to double check all opening hours and closures before trying one of my itineraries!)
Browse among the many small shops for souvenirs, “olde tyme” candies, or anything else that strikes your fancy.
Image courtesy of the Wall Street Journal and an interesting article about the history of the horseshoe by Joe Barrett.
Those with fearless arteries should stop in for a horseshoe sandwich (an original Springfield creation) at one of the many eateries near the Old Capitol. (For those of you who are Canadian or familiar with the Quebecois delicacy, think poutine on crack. . .) Sadly, as the horseshoe is a 20th century creation, Honest Abe never got to indulge. . . And for those of you who find several thousand miles between you and the nearest horseshoe, you can feast your eyes on the WSJ article here.
Next up is the Illinois State Capitol (note, this link is not the official website but provides much interesting history) which many believe is one of the most beautiful legislative buildings in the U.S. (It’s not that I disagree — but my sample size at present is too small to compare with!) A 30 minute guided tour allows access to areas that are otherwise closed to the public. Visitors are permitted to observe the State House and Senate when they are in session (sadly I went during a holiday so I missed this opportunity.) Tour times change by season so check in advance to see what times are offered. Also be prepared for security screenings in advance of your tour so you are not late.
Lincoln Home National Historic Site (Book in advance!) These tours are very popular, so it is highly recommended that you book in advance. In my case I just walked over to the visitor center in the morning and secured a free ticket for the late afternoon. Tiny by today’s standards and at $1,200 highly affordable as well! On a side note I kind of geeked out here wondering how much this was in today’s dollars – turns out it’s more complicated than you might think! But still well within my budget unlike today’s property market! The site includes several other restored homes — and one of my personal favorite things was the bookstore at the visitor center. If you have the time, it’s very interesting to compare day and night vistas.
Lincoln Ghost Walk This evening lantern-lit tour was a LOT of fun. Led by the highly entertaining Garret Moffett, it is more mysterious and thought provoking than truly scary, and is kid-friendly. Historians make much of Mary Todd Lincoln’s unique approach to spiritualism and mysticism, but Abraham Lincoln himself shared some of these interesting beliefs which are reflected in the home she shared with her famous husband. You’ll learn about these and much more on the tour!
End your day with a late dinner and glass of wine at Saputo‘s, another Springfield institution where many a backroom deal has been brokered. If you’ve been to Italy you are not going to be overly impressed with the food (though is it quite palatable!) But the true reason you’re going there is for the ambiance.
Day 2
Mosey along for a pleasant 30-40 minute walk or catch the bus to the Lincoln’s Tomb, where it is traditional to begin your visit by rubbing the nose of the giant bronze bust of Lincoln’s head for good luck. The tomb itself is somber as befits its purpose and is both simple and majestic at once. It’s a nice place for reflection.
Continue on to the Abraham Lincoln Museum and Presidential Library which has attractions for all ages. Again, one of my favorite things about this place was the gift shop, where I loaded up on books and bought some earrings that I still wear today. More sobering but equally interesting was the civil war documentary and artifacts from that era.
Those with kids may also want to check out the Illinois State Museum (full disclosure — I did not make it there!)
The last train to Chicago leaves at around 7:30 pm (again, please double check!) So do a time check and figure out if you want to add anything from the proposed architecture side tour below.
Architecture Side Tour
Beyond politics, Springfield is also the site of some interesting architecture. Depending on the pace at which you visit other attractions, you can just about cram this into a full weekend, or alternatively take a second day off.
Architecture buffs can check out the Frank Lloyd Wright designed Dana Thomas House, which I found interesting because despite being his 72nd building design, was the first time he was truly allowed to “go to town” and do whatever he wanted. It’s a fascinating house with an amazing balcony designed to optimize live music performances from both an aesthetic and an acoustic perspective.
Another place worth visiting is the Vachel Lindsay Home, where you can enjoy a guided tour of a 19th century tour house and learn about a poet you probably have never heard of <blush!>.
I apologize for the lack of photos — unhelpfully they are all on my camera which is in storage in the U.S.
