Lake Toba: Relaxation and A Tale of Two Beginnings

At the first glimpse of Lake Toba on the winding road to Parapat, one can be forgiven for momentary confusion — is this Indonesia or Switzerland?! Dark blue waters, green hills, and an assortment of church steeples (the Bataks indigenous to the area are predominantly Christian) greet the eye.  Upon reaching the ferry port at Parapat, however, you are undisputedly in Indonesia, with motor bikes, Padang canteens, and a warm and friendly chaos taking over your senses.

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Shameless ferry selfie

I am drawn to the region after no fewer than four jungle excursions in the past month, and look forward to relaxing in a more temperate climate for first time in months.

There is no dearth of accommodation in Tuk Tuk, the main tourist area on Samosir Island — an “Island within in Island” located about an hour’s ferry ride from Parapat.  I’ve chosen the quirky and slightly more upscale Horas Family Home, where I am regaled by stories by the garrulous owner, indulge in not only home cooked, but also home grown/raised food (TOP RATE!!!), and float aimlessly on the lake.  I also enjoy hot showers and access to my own fridge — luxuries I will never take for granted again.

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There are many ways to grill a fish — Scenes from the Horas Family Home Fish Barbecue

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Nature’s spotlight — sun shines through the rain on a late afternoon on Lake Toba

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Paddleboarder and Fisherman cross paths along the southeastern bank of Samosir Island.

This turns out to be a good choice, for even though it is officially the beginning of the dry season in Northern Sumatra — Mother Nature has other plans.  I find the nightly rain drumming on the roof to be very soothing, but with the occasional afternoon squall, I also find myself grateful that there are not many more things to do in Lake Toba than relax.

On my first full day (coincidentally also the driest) I decide to venture out and explore the island.  A walk around Tuk Tuk takes about an hour — but 15 minutes in I cave to the heat and decide to rent a motor bike and helmet (at, I might add, twice the rate of bikes in Lombok!)  With only the most rudimentary of maps, and an occasionally confused Waze / Google Maps GPS combo, I venture out in search of the renowned “Ambarita Stone Chairs.”

While the Romans had thumbs up or thumbs down to determine gladiatorial fate, the pre-Christian Bataks had the stone chairs where they held council.  Whenever an enemy was captured or a local was accused of some misdeed, the elders would invite the rulers of neighboring villages to convene and determine the fate of the victim.  If deemed guilty, the poor soul would be rubbed with garlic and chilli, beheaded, and, er, savored.  (If you are “lucky” you can be selected as part of a “live demonstration” on site.) 

This sounded cool, if somewhat macabre.  I head in the general direction over some seriously steep and rocky roads, and quickly find myself spinning in circles thanks to Waze taking me off course.  (Asking for help is surprisingly useless, even in Indonesian.  For every person who told me to turn left — another would tell me to turn right.).  FINALLY I spot signs for “Famous Ambarita Stone Chairs”, and after parking the motorbike in a shady spot, dutifully sign the registration log and make an IDR 10,000 “donation.”

IMG_4278Climbing a steep, mossy (read, slippery!) staircase carved into the rocky outcrop, I snap pictures of the Batak statues and carvings along the way.   Upon reaching the top, I see no stone chairs in sight.  Could I have missed them?  Carefully making my way down again, I see a miniature set of stone chairs that could have comfortably seated a Council of Elders — were such council comprised of children or dolls.  And this looks NOTHING like the photos I’ve seen online.

IMG_4299 Feeling duped (but also feeling too foolish to confront the man at the registration hut), I get back on the bike and decide to wander a bit further.  Down the road, I see signs for “Huta Siallagan” — the ACTUAL stone chairs.  They are certainly more to scale, and an impressive sight to behold, but the fake Batak village and souvenir market somehow cheapen the overall experience.  So I find my earlier irritation fading, especially considering that as part of my earlier “donation” I was given a rather cute carved keychain as a souvenir.

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The not-so-real miniature stone chairs.

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The much more reasonably-sized stone chairs.

I gained three key takeaways from this little adventure (misadventure?).  First, given that this was the historical highlight of Samosir, I would not feel guilty for spending the rest of my stay taking in the scenery at my own, VERY SLOW pace.
Second, even though one was officially a mistake, I was quite happy to appreciate the two different sites from an aesthetic perspective, especially when not ascribing any particular historical importance to either. Third and most importantly, I realized that it was the story, more than the site, that appealed to me.  One of my favorite pastimes is to collect folk and fairy tales from around the world.  So, over the next sleepy couple of days in Lake Toba, I greatly enjoyed learning two tales of creation behind this very special place.

Version 1:  The Batak Legend of Samosir

Once upon a time, there was a young farmer named Toba. He lived in a fertile valley and while by far not a rich man, he was able to support himself by growing crops.

One day, Toba awoke with a craving for fish, and headed to a nearby river with his fishing pole in tow. The river was usually teeming with fish, but on that strange day, not a single one was in sight.  Just as he was preparing to leave (with great disappointment) he snared a big fish. As he slowly reeled it in, he was surprised to hear a voice pleading with him to let the fish go.  Looking around, he saw no one.  He then realized that the fish itself was speaking to him. 

Astounded, Toba released the fish back into the river.  Suddenly the fish transformed into beautiful young woman. The woman explained that she was actually a princess who had been cursed to live out her life as a fish. In gratitude to the young farmer for breaking her curse, the princess  said that she would happily become his wife under one condition — he must never tell a soul about her previous life as a fish.  If he did not heed this condition, she warned, a terrible tragedy would befall him. 

Toba and the princess were happily married, and soon after she gave birth to a baby boy, whom they named Samosir. Samosir had a tremendous appetite. In a perpetual state of hunger, he would devour all the food on the table without leaving his parents a single morsel to eat.

One day, Samosir was sent to bring food to his father who was busy working in the fields. Absentmindedly he began nibbling at the delicious meal that his mother had packed.  Toba was both famished and tired after a hard day’s work, but discovered that was no food left for him to eat. In a fit of rage, he lashed out at the boy, calling him a son of a fish.

Crying, Samosir ran home and asked his mother if he really was a son of a fish. Shocked and saddened, the princess told the boy to climb the to the top of the tallest tree on the hill behind their home.  Hurrying to the river bank where she and Toba first met, the princess suddenly disappeared.

The sky turned black as night, and thunder, lightning and heavy rain besieged the valley, causing a great flood.  The water levels continued to rise until the valley was no more — it had turned into a large lake.  The hill became an island, named after its sole survivor, Samosir.  Legend has it that Samosir is the father of the Batak people of North Sumatra.  Toba, the harbinger of disaster, is commemorated by the lake which today bears his name.  Of the princess, sadly, nothing remains. 

Version 2:  Science Stuff

Lake Toba and Samosir Island were formed after the eruption of a supervolcano some 75,000 years ago.  Due to its unique topology, Samosir is quite possibly the only place in the world where you can both stand on an island on an island (The island of Samosir in Lake Toba on the Island of Sumatra) and swim in a lake on a lake (Lake Sidihoni on Samosir on Lake Toba)

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Quick Facts

  • Lake Toba is the largest volcanic lake in the world, and is one of approximately 20 recognized “supervolcanoes” in the world.
  • The lake was formed after a massive eruption approximately 74,000 years ago, believed by scientists to be the largest volcanic eruption of the past 2.5 million years
  • Ash from the eruption has been found as far away as Lake Malawi, Africa
  • The Toba Catastrophe Theory posits that the last eruption was so severe that it led to an ice age, and wiped out most of our prehistoric ancestors in everywhere but Africa, creating a “genetic bottleneck” explaining the origins of the human race stemming from that continent.
  • However, the above theory is being increasingly discredited as new science comes to light
  • The North-South Sumatra fault line, which bisects Sumatra, runs through Mount Toba.
  • In theory, any activity along this fault line could trigger another Toba eruption.
  • Samosir is the largest island on an island, and the fifth largest lake island in the world
  • Samosir was originally a peninsula, connected to mainland Sumatra by a small isthmus

I think both versions are pretty interesting — which one do you prefer?

Borneo Jungles: The Beauty of Disconnecting

Hello Internet!  After nearly 3 weeks in the jungles of Borneo and over a week laid up in bed back home  it’s a pleasure to reconnect.  Or is it?

If there is anything that I’ve learned on this month-long hiatus, it’s that wifi is worse than any drug.  Truly.  I realized that I had a problem when I was more stressed out at not being able to connect than I was by being so remote that I couldn’t buy cigarettes.   (Even in Brunei, the height of modern civilization in Borneo, there are no boozy beverages or smokes to be found.  But I was more saddened by the fact that the wifi was too slow for me to connect to my website. . .)

On a practical front, I was concerned that while traveling alone, I had no means of telling friends and loved ones that I had not been devoured by a crocodile.   (I did get attacked by leeches on two separate occasions — but that’s its own story!)  On an emotional front, I felt like a crappy friend who couldn’t be consistently accessible to friends going through tough times.  One by one my Word Feud and Words with Friends Games were automatically resigned.   And without Facebook — a key tool not only for my blog but for my LIFE — whatever was a girl to do?

EVERY once in a blue moon, the planets (or more accurately, the satellites) would align for JUST long enough for me to receive a flurry of updates and Whats App messages — only to disconnect before I was able to reply.  The WORST was not being able to respond to a birthday invite from a friend in Jakarta, and to just barely get three words out to her on the actual day.  But amazingly, one’s true friends are surprisingly understanding about the realities of leaving the urban jungle for an entirely different one.

Like beating any addiction, the first 48 hours were the hardest.   But then slowly I discovered new ways to stay engaged and in touch.

No wires -- no makeup, but definitely a cave spelunking badass!

No wires — no makeup, but definitely a cave spelunking badass!

1)  News.  Just like in the “old days” news DID make it to the jungle with each new wave of visitors.  I learned about the horrific events in Nepal from an actual person.  As a result, rather than voyeuristically perusing news updates and heartbreaking photo montages, we quietly mourned those lost, and reflected on how lucky we were in so many ways.

2)  Sensory Stimulation.  The only thing better than cute monkey videos is seeing monkeys in action — in the flesh.  (And, I might add, some interesting mating habits were revealed!)  My first day in the jungle, I literally couldn’t see the forest for the trees.  But by the second and third days, I found my eyes identifying both primates and birds camouflaged in the leaves — and being quite proud of my newfound abilities.  (Unfortunately, since I don’t have a zoom lens, you’ll have to take my word that the fuzzy blobs in my snaps are in fact animals and insects in their milieu!)

3) Social Engagement. As a single traveler (and a woman) I frequently find myself using my devices to keep potential weirdos at bay — from the endlessly chattering seatmate on a long-haul flight, to Casanova acolytes who assume that there is no earthly way you could be content with your own company. Maybe it’s just that willingness to venture into the jungle automatically makes you kind of cool — but overall I met some amazing people that I probably would have been less inclined to engage with under other circumstances. (I am frequently described as “reserved” or “slow to warm up.”)

4) Sleep Quality. I truly do believe that unplugging, coupled with trekking and fresh air, had a positive effect on my ZZZ’s. This made me generally more sharp, observant, and communicative. Since I know that in reality I will probably continue to be on at least one of my devices before sleep, a more practical long-term solution that I plan to explore when I return home is amber-tinted specialty glasses designed to filter out blue light.

5) Gratitude. Without distractions, and living an albeit temporarily simpler life, I found it easy to take time out to appreciate how lucky I was. In many ways, this is the most important lesson of all.

So a blogger can’t post without Internet access — but at the same time, may come up with unexpected inspiration without it. . . .

Backups and Contingency Plans: The Weekend Traveler’s Key Tool

The theft of my iPhone in Senggigi (in all honesty, due ENTIRELY to my own negligence), my very own amusing CSI Lombok experience with the local police and “Find my iPhone” maps that were virtually useless on a largely uncharted island, and the ultimate combination of threats and bribes that finally got the phone back into my own hands, made me realize how much we take for granted, and how easily a weekend voyage can be ruined without adequate advance planning.  But hopefully these tips, and accounts of my own travel snafus, will be of some use!

Even the most seasoned, well-prepared traveler can find him or herself in an unexpected jam.  Sometimes this is entirely of one’s own making (a moment of spaciness, forgetfulness, or general fatigue).  Other times it is simply  an instance of Murphy’s Law, or the universe conspiring to make life inconvenient at the most inopportune moments.  Being prepared for the worst case scenario, however, can make these travel hiccups bearable.  So, in order of likelihood:

1)  Weather

Inclement weather and inappropriate attire can place a spanner in the works of any trip.  Too many times I’ve seen people who traveled for hours turned away from holy shrines due to inappropriate attire, shivering on so-called tropical mountains, or otherwise paying an extortionate amount for appropriate gear on site.  And yes, on occasion I’ve even been one of said travelers.  My weirdest experience was getting caught in a freak rainstorm in Eastern Europe and having to explain to bemused immigration officials how my Hungarian visa stamp had literally washed out of my passport which had been rather foolishly stowed in the back pocket of my jeans.  (I was 19 at the time, so perhaps can be forgiven for the lapse in judgment.)  A more plebeian instance was freezing my butt off on Capetown’s Table Mountain after sunset and having to buy a US$ 100 fleece!

Nowadays I always travel with the following:  a light umbrella in my purse, layering pieces of clothing, and a scarf/sarong that in a pinch can serve as a picnic blanket, beach towel / outdoor changing station, or head/leg covering for visiting holy sites.  I also always throw in a pair of thin flip flops, one pair of sports shoes, and one pair of comfortable but presentable shoes that can go from day to night should an unexpected evening out / business meeting come into play.  While packing too many pairs of shoes is the most common a rookie mistake, bringing only one is equally risky as you are really stuck if your shoes get wet (or, as could only  happen to me, if you fall into an irrigated and fertilized rice paddy and, well, smell a bit ripe.)    Ziploc bags weigh nothing and in a pinch are great for protecting passports, wallets, and mobile phones/cameras, not to mention saving a lot of headache from leaked shampoos, gels or worst of all — oils.  (Remember that changing pressure in the baggage cabin can cause even the most sturdy travel bottles to expand/contract and therefore leak.)  For more intense, rugged travel, investing in a dry bag and/or specialized housing for your phone/camera is a worthwhile expenditure.

2)  Lost/Delayed Luggage

2.1:  BEFORE it is lost.

For most of us, bags missing a flight are simply an inconvenience.  However, before your trip there are a few steps that you can take to minimize risk and/or survive the experience.

Handcarrying the basics:  I always bring at least one extra pair of underwear, an extra shirt, prescription medication, and any other vital items in my carry-on luggage to ensure that I am not stranded unawares.  (You can choose to pack your toothbrush/toiletries, but keep in mind that these are typically easy/cheap to replace.)  I once had to go to a 9 am business meeting in a denim skort and tshirt because my luggage had missed my flight —  which happened to be the last one of the previous evening.  Luckily the meeting was with an NGO and my predicament served as an amusing ice breaker.  But it was a dumb move on my part.

Minimizing distractions and the number of items you need to take out/off in the security lane.  I was once so flustered in the Mumbai airport that I left my laptop in the security lane while running to catch a flight.  But happily I had taped my business card to the bottom of the computer, and when I called the airport upon landing, they had it safely stowed for retrieval by my very kind Indian colleague.  Taking a critical conference call while going through security at Washington National Airport, I left my watch in the bin.  It wasn’t particularly valuable, but I never got it back.  Normally I would have placed it in my bag and grabbed it off the conveyor belt, but being distracted and stressed, I strayed from my routine and paid the price for it.

Properly tagging / marking your bags:  Those with extra cash to burn / higher stakes to lose may wish to consider investing in newer RFID-tagged luggage that ensures that YOU can find your bags even when the airline can’t.   You can also invest in RFID luggage tags for a little less, but don’t make the rookie mistake of placing them on your baggage handle where they can easily break/ fall off.  Place them inside your suitcase.   And remember that even the best technology is useless if you don’t register it in advance.  But even the travel Luddite can maximize the chances for recovery by taking a few small but effective steps.

  • Include a copy of your itinerary (dates and hotel names) INSIDE your luggage.  The best place is the unlocked front pocket of your nylon luggage.  This both helps with identification and ensures that your tropical vacation gear does not get sent back to your home in sub-arctic Michigan mid-vacation.
  • Write your email address and phone number on your luggage tag.
  • Do NOT put your home address on your luggage tag.  This is an open invitation to rogue baggage handlers / thieves who have definitive proof that you are not home.  Use an office address if possible or, as stated, above simply put your electronic contact details.
  • Differentiate your bag.  Reporting a lost, unmarked black ballistic nylon bag is about as helpful as describing an Asian as having dark hair.  Popular tricks include putting colored tape on the bottom of the bag, any variety of luggage belts, yarn/ribbon, and other “crafty” solutions.  Tacky, but effective!
  • Do NOT put fragile stickers on your bag.  This essentially broadcasts that there is something valuable to steal (even if there isn’t.)  Proper packing can insulate almost any breakable item — and if it’s really that valuable/fragile, you should probably be hand carrying it anyway.

Checking airline baggage tags in advance: Yes, mistakes ARE made on occasion.  Ensuring that your bags are going to the right destination is an obvious but frequently overlooked first step.  Fully understanding procedures surrounding international transit (Do you have to clear customs with your luggage and drop it off at a separate belt?  Or does it automatically transfer through?)  is next.  Furthermore, if you are traveling an “unusual” route, don’t assume that the airline staff at your departure airport are fully familiar with the policies and procedures at your destination.  Ask again on the ground.

2.2:  AFTER it is lost.

  • Report it EARLY.  Don’t wait for the luggage belt to stop — by then there will be scores of people in line at the lost baggage desk.  If you’ve seen the same bags go around the loop twice or more, chances are that’s it.
  • Note as MANY details as possible on the form.  Bag type, dimensions, any other identifying marks make it easier to find your luggage if the airline’s tags have accidentally fallen off.  Have your baggage claim stubs handy.
  • Politely request that the staff member try to track WHERE your bag is.  Knowing that it is safely sitting in a specific airport waiting for shipment on the next flight out is VERY comforting.  If it cannot be found, ask about your options (including a stipend for replacing essential items, and potential liability for an irrevocably lost bag.)
  • Keep receipts for any items you purchase to replace essential items as they may be claimable.
  • Ensure that you know how to track the progress of your bag once you leave the airport.  Some airlines have an online system while others will provide you with a contact phone number or email address for updates.
  • Make sure that you leave contact information for the delivery driver to reach you, and an appropriate protocol (do you require a signature?  Can the bags be left on the front porch?)
  • Inform your host / hotel that a bag is expected to be delivered and when it will arrive.  This minimizes confusion upon arrival.

3)  Electronic / Technology Disasters

Theft or travel destruction of electronics while traveling is a surprisingly common occurrence.  I mentioned my own recent phone theft,

  • Backup, backup, backup.  I always back up my laptop onto an external hard drive before I leave for a trip.  What I have neglected to do in the past (and will be far more religious in doing in the future) is to ensure that my phone (and phone photos) are regularly synced to my cloud account.  Learn how to back up iPhone, BlackBerry, and Android devices.  I am probably the only person on the planet without a tablet, but back that up too!
  • Download your camera photos /videos regularly (either to a laptop or even better, onto a cloud account.)  I’ve lost more irreplaceable digital photos than I care to admit over my years of travel.  🙁
  • Know how your phone tracking software works.  Apps like Find My iPhone, Find My Android Phone and BlackBerry Protect make it easier than ever to track your phone and even communicate with the thief / finder.  Through a series of messages that the Find My iPhone app allowed me to post on my phone’s home screen, I was able to both threaten and cajole the thief by informing her that if I blocked the phone it would become a useless brick that she couldn’t resell, whereas by returning it to me she could get a reward.  Happily this turned out to be an effective approach.

4) Theft / Loss of Valuables

 The best solution is not to bring valuables at all.  But of course this isn’t always feasible — so keep these tips in mind.

  • The in-room hotel safe is NOT your friend.  I have countless friends who have lost everything from money to engagement rings and family jewelry by depending on these electronic theft traps.  If you happen to be traveling with a lot of cash, irreplaceable documents, or expensive jewelry, call your hotel manager to arrange for these to be stored in the hotel’s business safe.  Other things, like your passport, ordinary electronics, and day-to-day jewelry are far safer being locked in your luggage than in the in-room safe.
  • Separate your credit cards and cash.  Keeping your money and cards in one place may seem like the organized thing to do, but can be catastrophic when someone walks off with your bag/wallet.  Make sure that you have at least one emergency credit card and extra cash (preferably in an easily convertible currency like USD or Euros) tucked away in a safe location.  Also, in addition to cloud-based backup (I personally use MSecure because of its multi-platform reach) make sure you have the phone numbers of your card companies noted down in a notebook or other safe place so that you can instantly call to cancel/replace your stolen cards.
  • Consider whether a wallet is the way to go.  Long ago on a trip to Rome, an Italian friend gave me some great advice that I still use to this day when traveling to places renowed for pickpockets.  Put your money loose at the bottom of your bag and hold it tightly — that makes it almost impossible for a pickpocket to do a quick “slight of hand” move.
  • Have photos of any valuables that you are bringing with you readily available to include with any police / insurance company report.

5)  Fine Print / Contractual Issues

Visa Policy:  Arriving in Vientiane on a late night flight last month, I found myself in line behind a German tourist who was incredulous that the visa counter did not accept credit cards.  Luckily for her, I had extra USD cash on hand and managed to do a quick exchange.  Five seconds on the immigration and customs website could have saved here this hassle.  China has been known to incarcerate visa overstayers (though they are typically fined).  So caveat emptor!

Flight Delays:  Most people assume that if a flight delay prevents you from making a connection, that the airline is responsible for finding you an alternative flight at no cost.  This is rarely the case if you have booked two separate itineraries independently.  When you make travel plans, especially to places notorious for delays, weight the costs and benefits carefully.

Not Checking for Errors:  More times than I can count, I’ve found my name misspelled or in the wrong order on airline and train tickets.  With heightened security around the world, this simple error could mean that you will not be allowed to travel.  Recently in New Zealand, a friend of mine got a notice from the airline that her original connecting flight had been cancelled and, as a result, they had booked her on an alternative flight.  This would have been fine in theory, but it turned out that they flight they had rebooked her on departed EARLIER than her originating flight.  There was no way humanly possible for her to make it.  Given that she had important meetings the next day, this would have been a disaster for her.

6)  Force Majeure

Even in my own short life I have lived through some actually scary (Philippine People Power Revolution, Tiananmen Square) and overhyped (Y2K, Indonesia’s remarkably calm 2014 election).  I’ve also some close calls (airport bombing in Karachi, typhoons/hurricanes,  Sichuan earthquake.  It is generally a good practice to register your travel plans with your home embassy to ensure that they update you on evacuation plans should unexpected force majeure incidents impact your travel plans.  Most of my friends think this is crazy paranoia, but having been evacuated twice out of two different countries, I feel that two clicks on a website are well worth the peace of mind.

7)  Don’t Give Up! 

Finally, even when faced with the most intractable policies, never give up.  From asking to speak to someone more senior, to approaching a newspaper’s travel ombudsman, better business bureau, or regulatory agency, you may still be able to resolve your problem.  And remember that you can catch more flies with honey than vinegar — losing your cool or being insulting/arrogant with staff will far more likely harm than help your case.  (Pleading my case with a Jet Star check-in agent in Singapore and getting her sympathy saved me from baggage fees that would have exceeded my ticket price!)

 In short, expect the best, prepare for the worst — and either way remember to enjoy your trip!  Sometimes the worst travel disasters make the best stories. . .

Layover: Frankfurt in 8 Hours

Minimum layover time required:  6 hours

My European readers have complained (justly!) that I have yet to write any posts about the continent, which got me thinking about this wonderful 8 layover that I had in Frankfurt.

Follow signs for the S-bahn, Frankfurt’s commuter rail that seemed-406288_1920gets you to the central train station, Frankfurt Hauptbanhof, in less than 15 minutes.  From Haupbanhof, take tram 11, direction Fechenheim Schießhütten-straße 4 stops to Römer / Paulskirche.   (A Frankfurt transport map can be viewed here. )

Your Frankfurt adventure begins at Paulskirche, or St. Paul’s Church, an example of early Lutheran church design and the birthplace of German democracy.

Next, take a short walk romerberg-337894_1280down to Römerberg, the “medieval” city hall square that is arguably one of Frankfurt’s most noted landmarks.  (Medieval is in quotes because while the square remains true to its original architectural style, the 1405 square was destroyed in WWII and subsequently rebuilt.)  Weed through the throngs of tourists to catch a glimpse of the fountain of justice, and note the plaque commemorating the Nazi book burning .

Then, make your way down towards the waterfronbridge-194623_1920t.  Those with the time may wish to pop into the Historisches Museum Frankfurt  (which sadly was being renovated when I visited).

Afterwards, a relaxing option — assuming that jet lag is beginning to set in after a red eye flight — is to hop onto one of the Main river cruises which launch from the Eisener Steg bridge.  Commentary will focus on the different architectural styles along the river banks — interesting but certainly no match to Chicago’s river architecture cruise.  The main draw is soaking up the sun and appreciating the blue sky

frankfurt-509511_1920After your “snooze cruise” it’s probably time for lunch.  (Naturally, lunch can be enjoyed at any point along the way depending on your schedule!)   Make your way past St. Leonhardskirche to Hauptwache where skyscrapers abound. Schillerstrasse pedestrian street takes you by the Frankfurt Börse – the hub of the city’s finance district.  From the Börse, Finally, meander along the Zeil, Frankfurt’s main shopping / pedestrian street, where shops and eateries abound.

Allow yourself at LEAST 2.5 hours to get back to the airport before your scheduled departure.  From Hauptwache, catch the S-bahn (S-8 or S-9 direction Wiesbaden) back to Frankfurt Airport.

And there you have it — a lovely layover in Frankfurt!

PS:  Should your layover fall over a weekend, another option is is try The Ebbelwei-Express Historic Tram Tour, a hop-on hop-off tour on Saturdays, Sundays and public holidays.  Get your bearings with a downloadable podcast, enjoy a glass of apple wine (Ebbelwei) and even try your hand at learning basic Hessian.  (Full disclosure — I haven’t had the opportunity to try this but it certainly sounds fun!)

 

Weekend Exclusive: A “Quintessential” Day as a 1%er

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One day this will be my name. In the U.S. I might just BARELY get away with pretending my name is Wisnu, but in Indonesia and India they would laugh me out of the country!

I have a new mission in life. It’s to become a 1%er for just long enough to join Quintessentially‘s global “lifestyle management” and come up with a reasonable (and legal!) concierge request that completely stymies them.  (On my current earnings as a writer I estimate that it should only take a millennium or so to achieve!)

Over my global wanderings I have on occasion found myself fortunate enough to be an “HNWI by association.”  (That’s High Net-Worth Individual for you plebeian 99%ers).  I’ve flown in a Lear Jet, brunched in Palm Springs, taken a helicopter to lunch on an exclusive resort on France’s Île de Porquerolles, and hot air ballooned my way through California.  (I still kick myself for missing out on the Concorde’s final flight in 2003!)  I was the only one of my siblings NOT to be sent to finishing school (grateful eyes cast up to the heavens), but from the age of six, was expected to comport myself in a way befitting my station as an expat hopefully-not-so-brat in first class cabins and five-star hotels. (They didn’t have seven-stars back in the good old days!)

I have also played a role as “HNWI enabler,” beginning my professional career as a paralegal and personal assistant where my polyglot skills proved useful in wheedling sold-out tickets out of the Paris Opera and securing last-minute reservations at Positano’s exclusive Le Sirenuse hotel for my Europhile boss.  Conspiring with colleagues at a global consulting firm in China on how to get the ever-masked WWE wrestler Rey Mysterio, Jr. through immigration in Beijing without revealing his identity to the public and getting Meg Whitman’s corporate jet through the red tape of China’s People’s Liberation Army-controlled airspace also fall into this category of unique life experiences.

So it was with moderately experienced and very jaded eyes that I visited Quintesentially’s Jakarta office  today.  Co-founder Lius Widjaja graciously stopped in on my chat with Maketing and PR Office Darius Widjaja to learn more about this global yet local concierge service, and the expectations of Indonesia’s elite.

A number of things instantly strike me.  First, where one might expect airs and condescension, instead I found passion and commitment to service.  Second, a true “the sky is the limit” approach to the the job.  Literally.  (As I write this the team is negotiating with operators in Nevada for an Indonesian client to take a trip to space!)  Third, the insanely rich can be BATSHIT crazy.  (In my humble opinion. . .)

You can read almost any media article to understand the full range of services that Quintessentially provides around the world — from Abuja, Nigeria to Warsaw, Poland.  But what interested me is how this mammoth organization mobilizes to serve some of the most difficult (my word, not theirs) people on the planet — and what these people expect out of their travel experiences.  I explain that while Weekend Crossroad doesn’t specifically cater to HNWIs, what my readership has in common with this group is a lack of time, and a desire to experience unique journeys off the beaten path.

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What does it take to be a Quintessentially Concierge?

Our Lifestyle Managers must be emotionally stable and have a good, positive attitude as HNWIs have high expectations and can be extremely challenging to deal with.  They must maintain a calm face at all times, have the patience of a saint, and be excellent multitaskers.  We frequently use the word “resilient” when we describe our work — Lifestyle Managers must be able to withstand all kinds of pressure and identify solutions for the most challenging tasks.  We save our panicking for behind the scenes!

This sounds like a 24-7-365 job.  How do you keep your team motivated and avoid burn-out?

Many of our lifestyle managers become close friends with their clients – which leads to mutual appreciation and respect.  We do encourage them to set reasonable boundaries, while our great CRM system  allows anyone in the world to step in seamlessly to help with a unique client challenge.  We also carefully limit both our overall membership numbers and the number of individuals that any single lifestyle managers oversees.  During busy times, even non-operations staff such as me step in to help.

What is the biggest challenge you face?

Time.  Most of our requests come at the last minute from extremely busy individuals or organizations who have extremely high expectations.  Most of the time we are able to make this happen.   Sometimes we get complaints about factors that are completely beyond our control — delayed flights, bad weather (requiring the cancellation of yacht trips, etc.)  But for the most part our loyal clients are extremely satisfied.

Where do you draw the line?

As you can expect, we get all sorts of crazy requests from members.  If it’s illegal or unethical this is a no-go for us.

Have you ever had to “fire” a member?

Happily this is a rare occurrence for us.  For the most part, there is a clear etiquette, ethical standard, and mutual respect between our staff and our members.  But if someone repeatedly crosses the line –for example, requesting that we procure prostitutes, or makes unreasonable requests that put our carefully cultivated relationships at risk — we have no qualms about letting them go.

Are there any experiences that you feel especially proud of? 

We once had a member whose luggage was lost somewhere on a journey between LA and Jakarta (via Singapore).  After EXTENSIVE legwork we discovered that the luggage had somehow been misrouted to Malaysia, where it was sitting unnoticed.  We delivered the newly-found bags to our member’s door, and learned that the luggage itself was of inestimable sentimental value as it was a vintage gift from his late grandfather.

I notice that your membership is heavily skewed to an older, male demographic — what, if anything are you doing to attract more women to your offerings?  

Given that our membership is primarily comprised of CEOs, directors, and entrepreneurs, today, approximately 70% of our members are men and 30% are women.  We absolutely want to increase our proportion of women members, and organize specific events — from fashion shows to exclusive personal shopping opportunities, and once-in-a-lifetime dining experiences.  We rely heavily on word-of-mouth and referrals, and this will be key to attracting more women to our services.

What kind of travel experiences do your clients expect?

As you pointed out, anyone can book a five-star hotel or a first-class air ticket.  We seek to provide our members with unique travel experiences — from the luxurious to the extreme.  For example, we once helped a member join a North Pole expedition (at our request he even planted a Quintessentially flag to prove that this happened!)  We also have a number of people on the ground who help provide what we call “local gems” — truly unique, individualized experiences off the beaten track.  Anyone can book dinner in Tuscany.  But can you have a home-cooked meal by a Michelin-rated chef with Andrea Boccelli?

True dat.  It’s gratifying to know that even though I won’t become a member anytime soon, I have a concierge expert one-tap away on What’sApp.

Observations of a (VERY) Amateur Barista – the ABCDs of Coffee

After a long (though highly enjoyable!) month of traveling, I find it quite nice to be back in Jakarta, sitting in a coffee shop, and writing at long last!  I am astounded at how the 6 hour time difference between Jakarta and Auckland is impacting me more than my typical 12+ hour experiences, so it seems appropriate that today’s post should be about coffee.

I caveat this post with the confession that I barely passed high school math or chemistry. (Many thanks to the patience and understanding of one Enrico Marchetti, then Beijing-based Scotch-Italian teacher extraordinaire!) But still I find the precision of proper coffee preparation fascinating (even though at times frustrating!)

My favorite thing about all of the teachers at ABCD — Hendri (Phat Uncle), Ve, and Izman (LatteArtBandit!)— is that they are truly driven by passion and a deep love for what they do.  They gently direct, rather than correct, and make coffee both accessible and a wonderment. No one is too dumb, or too unsophisticated for this course. And that’s really saying something for a subject that is just as complex (if not more) than its frequently more standoffish cousin, wine appreciation.

I’m not going to give EVERYTHING away, because quite frankly, if you live in Jakarta or thereabouts, I strongly recommend this course.  If I had three thumbs, I would gladly raise them all to ABCD.    But I will happily debunk some common coffee myths in this post.

coffee_plant_beanMyth 1:  Arabica is always better than Robusta.

Wherever you fall in this debate, Hendri informs us that with global warming and other environmental factors affecting the productivity of coffee plantations, the world will increasingly become a Robusta place.  (The ROBUST in Robusta is no coincidence.  Robusta grows in more climates, is more resistant to pest infestation, and matures in a shorter time than its delicate sister.)  There ARE high quality Robusta blends out there – just like there are crap Arabica ones.   Robusta is frequently maligned because of its “harsher” flavor and occasionally “muddy” texture. In truth, it is increasingly it is becoming harder to tell the difference.  And for you resident workaholics out there, know that Robusta contains two to three times more caffeine by weight than Arabica.   Fun fact — if you want to differentiate the two different types of beans in a snap – look no further than bean and furrow shape.  Arabica is oval and has an S-like furrow, while Robusta beans are round, with a straight furrow.

Myth 2: Coffee shelf life and storage – freezing makes coffee last longer

To freeze or not to freeze remains a frequent debate among us “normal” coffee drinkers.  The most common wisdom is that freezing prolongs the shelf life.  Many coffee aficionados – from Portland, OR to Brooklyn, NY have told me definitively NOT to do this, but Hendri was the only person who gave me a clear scientific explanation.  First, freezing beans produces condensation, which affects both flavor and chemical makeup.  Second, both the excess water (from condensation) and the hardness of the frozen bean will ultimately damage a good coffee grinder.  The only way to store coffee?  In a dark and airtight container in a cool and dry place. (Check out the AirScape container available here and at specialty stores).  The optimum time for enjoying coffee?  Within 10-14 days of roasting.  Still tolerable?  Within two months.  Fully stale?  Within a year.   But drinking stale coffee, however unpleasant, is unlikely to make you sick.

Myth 3:  Dark roast and light roast coffee have different levels of caffeine

Most beginning coffee drinkers (including me in my college years) begin with the belief that due to its stronger flavor and deeper color, dark roast coffee contains more caffeine.   At the next level (me until three days ago!) we graduate to the belief that light roasts are more highly caffeinated because the caffeine is “roasted out” of dark roasts. But at ABCD, I learned that caffeine is actually a very stable molecule. (Scientific American explains the decaffeination process here.) Similarly while, espresso may have more caffeine by volume because of its concentrated nature, when imbibed “normally” (i.e., not 10 shots in a single sitting) it has the same amount of caffeine as a comparably “normal” cup of drip coffee.

Ziarna kawyMyth 4:  Shade-grown coffee beans absorb flavors from their accompanying shade trees.

You will often hear coffee drinkers comment about the orange notes in Bali-grown coffee attributed to the orange trees that frequently shade coffee crops on this beautiful Indonesian island. But you would be hard pressed to find eucalyptus-tinged coffee – which is one of the most common shade trees used among other coffee growers in Indonesia.  Flavor variations in coffee come from a number of factors, including altitude (coffees grown at higher altitudes tend to feature more sweetness and acidity), temperature, soil, etc. Roasting and storage also affect bean flavor.   The most significant way that a shade tree ACTUALLY impacts the coffee it protects is how the two plants compete for resources — water, nutrients, etc.

Myth 5:  There is only one proper way to brew coffee

It would be so easy to walk into the course assuming that all of the processes and procedures taught are the ONLY way to drink coffee. There were a couple of helpful guidelines though:

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Agitation (swirling the water or gently stirring) is key to the drip coffee brewing process. The bubbles are gas being released from the grounds, while the oily top layer holds in the aroma.

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One of ABCD’s many professional espresso machines. In brewing espresso, balance and timing are key. (Photo shamelessly appropriated from the ABCD website. Many thanks Ve!)

Coffee to Water Ratio: 1:15 – for every gram of coffee, add 15 ml of water (so a full cup is something around 15g of coffee and 225 ml of water)

Ideal Brewing Temperature: Between 92-96 C (too high and your coffee will be bitter; too low and you will not extract enough flavor from the bean.)

Milk Storage: Under 5C. (Fun fact – every additional 3C reduces its shelf life by half.)

Milk Heating: Never heat over 72 C, and never reheat.

But let’s face it – the majority of us don’t have THAT much time to devote to making our morning cup of Joe, nor do we have the budget (or the counter space) to invest in high-end equipment. I really like the definition of coffee snob that Hendri provided on day one (read here).  But when I sheepishly confessed that I owned a Nespresso machine back home and asked his opinion, he had this to say.  “Is it as good as specialty coffee?  No.  But is it better than pretty much any other one button solution in the market?  Absolutely.  For people with limited time, this is a perfectly good machine.”  He added “Coffee appreciation is a process.  If people move from instant to fresh ground, from pod based drip coffee to properly pressurized machines like Nespresso, it’s all progress.  And that’s a good thing.”

ABCD also emphasizes that coffee appreciation is about experimentation. Volume of grounds, grind size, keeping or tossing the first few drops of your drip coffee (which tends to be the most acidic – good if you like this flavor, less so if you don’t!) – all are a very personal choice. So while the above formulas are general best practice guidelines, they are not a rule set in stone.

On I lighter note, I will end today’s post by sharing some wisdom from Mrs. Hughes, my 11th Grade IB English teacher. A cup of coffee will not make you any less intoxicated – it will simply make you an “awake drunk.” So appreciate a cup of specialty coffee when you’re fully sober – and stay with water while drinking!

 

Travel in the News: Weekend Crossroad’s Jennifer Hart on Charming Cirebon

I am excited to share my inaugural Jakarta Post travel article with readers of Weekend Crossroad!  The article can be accessed on the JPlus website at http://jakplus.com/?p=3674

To all my dear Bandung friends out there, rest assured that I hold your city close to my  heart.  But I hope that by reading the below article you will see why Cirebon is well worth your while.

 

 

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Travel in the News: Weekend Crossroad’s Jennifer Hart on Litter as the Ugly Side of Tourism in Indonesia

For many, including myself, getting paid to rant is a dream come true.  As a traveler, one of the things that irks me most is seeing beautiful natural and/or historical places marred by human interference — graffiti, litter, you name it.  This is made all the more poignant by that fact that in one week in New Zealand, I’ve probably seen about five cigarette butts strewn on the ground — probably courtesy of tourists.

The following piece, my “Mark My Words” column in this week’s Jakarta Post JPlus Lifestyle Section, focuses on Indonesia for obvious reasons.  But the sad truth is that this could be said about far too many places.

You can read the article at http://jakplus.com/?p=3493, or with a magnifying glass below.  Or better, subscribe to the paper (or the online Press Reader edition) and ensure that I remain employed!  🙂

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Let me know what you think!

Yours in travel,

Jennifer

A Culinary Tour of Laos in Luang Prabang

Simply put, Laotian food is amazing.  There is a lot of national pride around the nation’s culinary heritage, and a combination of gratification and resentment that Thai cuisine has apparently “borrowed” a number of the area’s most renowned dishes. (Both the Lao and the Thai people are descended from a broader diaspora of Tai peoples whose reach extends from India to China, as well as Southeast Asia.  So perhaps we can call a truce and deem it a shared heritage. . .)

Now, there are two ways to experience Lao cuisine.  The first is the safe route, sticking to well-known staples such as:

  • Sticky rice (which comes in white, brown or purple varieties)
  • Laap, a spicy, minty salad of marinated minced buffalo, chicken, pork or fish (sometimes served raw so the more cautious explorer will do well to ask in advance)
  • Tangy papaya salad
  • Any combination of amazing dips, or jaew, which range from the almost salsa-like jaew mak len and eggplant-based  jaew mak khua to the more adventurous but equally delicious jaew bong, a chili paste whose special ingredient is, of all things, buffalo skin.  These dips are served with rice crackers and dried river weed (which may sound unappetizing at first but is little different from seaweed at the end of the day)
  • Local meatballs and sausage;
  • Various stir fried greens – some of which you would have never imagined eating — but are delicious nonetheless.

The second is what I like to call the “Anthony Bourdain on crack” approach.  (You can view the episode on his visit to the Land of a Million Elephants below — though apparently not in all markets.  Vientiane — check.  Jakarta — check.  Auckland — fail.)

IMG_3681This is the approach advocated by my friend Jason, who is not only a craft beer and whiskey/whisky aficionado  (I never asked him if he’s an Irish or Scotch man), but also one of the most adventurous eaters I have ever met.  So it is with great glee that he comes across Tamarind‘s Adventurous Lao Gourmet degustation menu.  (As readers of this blog are likely aware, degustation means tasting in French.  Finicky eaters will undoubtedly think of this more as a “disgusting” menu, and should opt for some of Tamarind’s tamer dishes.)   For someone like me, who definitely draws a firm line between food and insects, it is still worth a try (barely!)  For someone like Jason and his good sport better half Erin, it is a must do.  (Rubbing his belly after the feast, Jason proclaimed that he could “go home” now because he’d reached the apex of his trip.)

For around US$ 25 apiece, we got to sample over 20 different dishes — beginning with banana-flavored lao lao, a traditional spirit distilled from rice, and ending with a dessert platter and coffee or tea.  Value for money doesn’t even begin to describe the experience.

Round 1:  Aperitifs

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Erin did this JUST to mess with me. Hope the bug liked the banana lao lao!

We whet our appetites with shots of banana lao lao (which the Lao call whisky, and we call moonshine).  We are also offered refreshing ginger and lemongrass drinks, and I spice things up (literally!) with an absolutely amazing watermelon chili granita.  Then the adventure really begins.

Round 2:  Vegetable Platter (which comes with extra protein)

The first food round really tests our mettle — nestled among 8 dishes is stir fried water bug.  I would have been up for the challenge (the chopped up bug bits look like mushrooms).  But — Tamarind “helpfully” wants to remind you of what you are eating — and a giant water bug proudly sits on top of the platter.  I’m not particularly squeamish about bugs, but roaches are my Kryptonite.  And, unfortunately, the water bug looks like the world’s biggest cockroach.  (Water bugs are actually a kind of scorpion, but the eyes see what the eyes want to see!)  Like a malevolent Mona Lisa, its baleful eyes seem to follow my every move, and I begin to feel slightly queasy.  (To be fair, this could very possibly be attributed to the street-side BBQ chicken that I’d enjoyed earlier in the day — but I prefer to blame the bug.)

I admit it, I COMPLETELY wimp out.  I happily eat AROUND the bug dish, while Jason and his wife Erin bravely dig in.  Unexpectedly, it’s the chili — not the bugs — that almost does them in.  (Jason’s theory is that Tamarind’s chef amps up the spice levels so people don’t feel guilty about not finishing their portion.  Erin figures if your mouth is numb you can’t taste the bug.)  Either way, despite their most valiant efforts, neither of them can manage more than a couple of bites.

On the platter we also enjoy banana flower with bamboo shoots, sauteed ferns (which tastes much better than in sounds!) a medley of steamed vegetables including mushrooms, mustard greens, and a Southeast Asian specialty called “pea eggplant” which resembles overgrown capers.  We also sample a sour plum-based puree, as well as rice crackers boiled with ginger and sugar.  In true Lao fashion, we make miniature sticky rice balls with our fingers and dip these into the platter, using our thumbs to scoop up bite-sized portions of food.

Round 3:  Protein Platter

So, the secret protein on this platter was beetle larvae.  With memories of my roach nemesis still fresh in my mind, I steer clear of these.  Due to a shellfish allergy I avoid the fragrant baby shrimp cooked in lemongrass and chili and the miniature crabs (which Erin finds more difficult to eat than the beetles, and even crunchier.)  I like the buffalo meatballs, am ambivalent about the riverweed powder (it resembles matcha toasted with ginger and garlic, and I can’t help but think it would wonderful with Japanese pickled plum).  I think about my Chinese mother as I sample sweet pork floss, and avoid the fermented fish (which is basically Lao gefilte-fish) and the sour pork and pigskin wrapped in a banana leaf.  Food coma is clearly beginning to set in, because at this stage at the meal I scribble even more illegibly that usual (the last dish on the platter appears to have been some sort of fish and shrimp in a banana leaf. . .)

Round 4:  Soups

We are presented with two soups — snake soup (yup, it really does taste like chicken — chicken with tiny, tiny bones)  Lao people traditional eat the snake skin — we find that we are not Lao in this regard.  And ant egg soup.  Ant egg omelets  — Jason’s primary quest grace a Mr. Bourdain — are seasonal – and he is disappointed to learn that the eggs are too small at this time of year.  But we all enjoy the soup — the eggs look like rice granules (I see an excellent prank coming up!)  But again — fiery hot spice levels.

Round 5:  Fish

This tiny catfish (we never knew that they came this small!) delicately seasoned with lemongrass, fish sauce and chili is absolutely scrumptious.  However, we are so full that we can only enjoy a couple of bites.  The next day we would see massive bins of these fish at the morning market, squirming around like eels.

Round 6:   Flowers

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This dish is basically mushy and extremely bitter, and is not a particular hit with any of us.  However, the presentation was interesting, and we remind ourselves that even though we are not fans, bitterness is a highly prized flavor in Lao cooking.   (Along with salty and sour, bitterness forms a taste profile trifecta in the cuisine.)  We are far more interested in the so-called “earring fruit” that accompanies the dish.  (Lao food-naming conventions are VERY creative, as you will continue to see. . .)

Round 7:  Dessert

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We have no idea how we are going to eat dessert, but what they say must be true — dessert goes into another part of the stomach.  So we shift on our seats and make some room to feast on purple sticky rice boiled coconut milk and flavored with coconut tamarind sauce (which is so delicious that I buy a jar to take home with me.)  We also tuck into pumpkin custard steamed in the rind,  In an effort to be Lao, we attempt to gnaw on the tough exterior which elicits a chuckle from the restaurant manager — Lao eat ALMOST everything, but not that.  Finally, rice powder and coconut skewers,  a delicious cookie made from rice powder and palm sugar known rather appetizingly as “cat poo”, and a brittle-like cracker of sesame and peanuts.  I am not usually a fan of coconut, but everything is so delicious.

After our three-plus hour dinner, as we cross the rickety bamboo foot bridge which spans the Nan Khan River to return home, we consider the distinct possibility of crashing through the slats in an Indiana Jones-like manner given how full we feel.  It’s almost impossible to imagine that when we wake up 9 hours later, we will be back at Tamarind learning how to cook ourselves!  (No, there were no bugs on that menu.)  More to come on Lao food!

Are readers interested in recipes along with the posts?  Let me know!

Launchpad Chicago: A Weekend in Springfield, IL

Happy Presidents Day (Feb 16!) to my American readers!  Rather than buying a new  car or mattress, I thought I’d share a post about the bailiwick of one of our most famous presidents — Abraham Lincoln.

Chicago, the U.S.’s “Second City” is frequently overshadowed by its more renowned elder cousin, New York and is sometimes snidely referred to as “flyover country” by people shuttling from coast to coast.  But while the Windy City is worth its own post (or several), I thought I’d focus on a place that few people outside of the State of Illinois consider — Springfield, the heart of Abraham Lincoln country and a place that is not only the seat of State government, but also a place where living history is suspended in time.

My close friends know that despite holding a driver’s license for two decades or so, I’ve acceded to my inner cheapskate envrionmentalist and vowed not to own a car for as long as I can. (My next milestone is 40 years old and looks promising so far.)  But one of the challenging things about living in the Midwest is that while Chicago’s public transportation is excellent (between bus, “El” and commuter train you can pretty much get to anywhere from anywhere), to explore further environs, you need to drive.  But one Columbus Day  (one of the U.S.’s many three -day weekends) I realized that Springfield – an approx. four train ride away — was a perfect destination.

One of the best things about Springfield is that EVERYTHING is walkable.  Even my hotel, the State House Inn, was only two blocks away from the train station (and smack in the middle of Springfield’s historic attractions.)

If you’re not a big walker, Springfield Mass Transportation offers a convenient historic sites bus route where a $3 day pass allows you unlimited rides on public buses that run 15- 30 minutes apart.

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Transit map courtesy of Springfield Mass Transit District accessed from http://www.smtd.org/pdf/historical.pdf in February, 2015.

For a weekend trip, I recommend catching a Friday evening train out of Chicago’s Union station to maximize your time.  Trains are frequently delayed because passenger trains vie for track space with massive freight cars, but there is a lot to read up on during your journey!  Here’s an easy to do weekend itinerary.

Day 1

Start the day with a visit to the Old State Capitol.  This hallowed is site of the famous Lincoln-Douglas debates that were instrumental in cementing Abraham Lincoln’s position in the national political scene, as well as his passionate “A House Divided” speech.  Thirty-minute guided tours provide an excellent overview of how politics worked (and looked) in the mid-19th century.

Cross the plaza and pop into the Lincoln-Herndon Law Offices which are overlooked by many tourists.  (They appear to be closed at present for renovations — which is a good reminder to double check all opening hours and closures before trying one of my itineraries!)

Browse among the many small shops for souvenirs, “olde tyme” candies, or anything else that strikes your fancy.

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Image courtesy of the Wall Street Journal and an interesting article about the history of the horseshoe by Joe Barrett.

Those with fearless arteries should stop in for a horseshoe sandwich (an original Springfield creation) at one of the many eateries near the Old Capitol.  (For those of you who are Canadian or familiar with the Quebecois delicacy, think poutine on crack. . .)   Sadly, as the horseshoe is a 20th century creation, Honest Abe never got to indulge. . .   And for those of you who find several thousand miles between you and the nearest horseshoe, you can feast your eyes on the WSJ article here.

Next up is the Illinois State Capitol (note, this link is not the official website but provides much interesting history) which many believe is one of the most beautiful legislative buildings in the U.S. (It’s not that I disagree — but my sample size at present is too small to compare with!)  A 30 minute guided tour allows access to areas that are otherwise closed to the public.  Visitors are permitted to observe the State House and Senate when they are in session (sadly I went during a holiday so I missed this opportunity.)  Tour times change by season so check in advance to see what times are offered.  Also be prepared for security screenings in advance of your tour so you are not late.

Lincoln Home National Historic Site (Book in advance!)  These  tours are very popular, so it is highly recommended that you book in advance.  In my case I just walked over to the visitor center in the morning and secured a free ticket for the late afternoon.   Tiny by today’s standards and at $1,200 highly affordable as well!  On a side note I kind of geeked out here wondering how much this was in today’s dollars – turns out it’s more complicated than you might think!  But still well within my budget unlike today’s property market!  The site includes several other restored homes — and one of my personal favorite things was the bookstore at the visitor center.  If you have the time, it’s very interesting to compare day and night vistas.

Lincoln Ghost Walk This evening lantern-lit tour was a LOT of fun.  Led by the highly entertaining Garret Moffett, it is more mysterious and thought provoking than truly scary, and is kid-friendly.  Historians make much of Mary Todd Lincoln’s unique approach to spiritualism and mysticism, but Abraham Lincoln himself shared some of these interesting beliefs which are reflected in the home she shared with her famous husband.  You’ll learn about these and much more on the tour!

End your day with a late dinner and glass of wine at Saputo‘s, another Springfield institution where many a backroom deal has been brokered.  If you’ve been to Italy you are not going to be overly impressed with the food (though is it quite palatable!)  But the true reason you’re going there is for the ambiance.

Day 2

Mosey along for a pleasant 30-40 minute walk or catch the bus to the Lincoln’s Tomb, where it is traditional to begin your visit by rubbing the nose of the giant bronze bust of Lincoln’s head for good luck.  The tomb itself is somber as befits its purpose and is both simple and majestic at once.  It’s a nice place for reflection.

Continue on to the Abraham Lincoln Museum and Presidential Library which has attractions for all ages.  Again, one of my favorite things about this place was the gift shop, where I loaded up on books and bought some earrings that I still wear today.  More sobering but equally interesting was the civil war documentary and artifacts from that era.

Those with kids may also want to check out the Illinois State Museum (full disclosure — I did not make it there!)

The last train to Chicago leaves at around 7:30 pm (again, please double check!)  So do a time check and figure out if you want to add anything from the proposed architecture side tour below.

Architecture Side Tour

Beyond politics, Springfield is also the site of some interesting architecture.  Depending on the pace at which you visit other attractions, you can just about cram this into a full weekend, or alternatively take a second day off.

Architecture buffs can check out the Frank Lloyd Wright designed Dana Thomas House, which I found interesting because despite being his 72nd building design, was the first time he was truly allowed to “go to town” and do whatever he wanted.  It’s a fascinating house with an amazing balcony designed to optimize live music performances from both an aesthetic and an acoustic perspective.

Another place worth visiting is the Vachel Lindsay Home, where you can enjoy a guided tour of a 19th century tour house and learn about a poet you probably have never heard of <blush!>.

I apologize for the lack of photos — unhelpfully they are all on my camera which is in storage in the U.S.