Flores 101: How, Where, and Why to Go

Flores is my Indonesia swan song – my last major trip in the archipelago nation before heading back to the U.S. I’m just barely staying true to Weekend Crossroad’s philosophy, as between its immense size and still developing infrastructure, Flores requires considerably more a long weekend to explore properly. However, those with time constraints can always choose a couple of highlights to enjoy, as illustrated in the following multi-part Flores series. Alternatively, one can choose to take an 8-10 day overland trip from Maumere to Labuan Bajo, which covers roughly two-thirds of the island.

This is Part One of Eight.

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Flores’s iconic Manggarai spider web rice paddies in Cancar Village outside of Ruteng. Having hit them just after harvest time, they are a bit brown and barren — but remarkable all the same. The unique layout stems from an ancient system of subdividing ancestral plots, ensuring equality and even more importantly, fair access to scarce water for irrigation.

Information about traveling to Flores is surprisingly scant compared with that on other popular destinations in Indonesia, and as such, I’ve included more “helpful information” information here than in most other Weekend Crossroad posts which concentrate more on itineraries and stories

Flores for me was a land of interesting opposites. Hot days and cold nights, arid moonscapes and lush tropical forests, and bright sunlit plains and mist-shrouded mountains. The island has had many evocative names throughout history, beginning with a local word for snake, derived from the island’s shape and its winding roads, and ending today with a shortened form of Cabo Das Flores, or Cape of Flowers, commemorating the initial impressions of 16th century Portuguese spice traders. Even today, many names bear witness to the island’s colonial history. Ende, for example, is a bastardization of the Dutch word Einde, as the town once demarcated the easternmost boundary of the Dutch-controlled western part of Flores.

East Nusa Tenggara province, of which Flores forms a part, is one of Indonesia’s poorest regions. Offering very few economic opportunities aside from fishing/subsistence farming and tourism, Flores is definitely among the poorest of the poor. The few cash crops of coffee, cocoa, cloves, vanilla, and cashews are shipped out in raw form, with almost no processing facilities on the island to add greater value and increase economic gains. Many families cannot even afford basic school fees, and one is immediately struck by the number of idle young men and joyfully scampering children hanging out in the streets, not to mention the plethora of graffiti (some of which is quite, er, colorful. . .)

Due to Portuguese colonialism, East Nusa Tenggara is the only predominantly Catholic province in Indonesia. Flores itself is 85% Roman Catholic, with the remaining  Muslim minority originally hailing from Sumba and Sulawesi and primarily settled along the coastline. Indeed, if training missionaries were an economic activity, this would be a significant contributor to the island’s income.  What I found most interesting, however, was how easily traditional beliefs (from animal sacrifice to spiritual healing) were interwoven with the newer faith systems – and how readily this was accepted all around. Is tradition the magic thread that has kept Flores as one of the few areas in Indonesia never to experience religious tensions? (A fact to which my guide frequently and proudly referred – and rightly so!)

This is especially interesting in light of the fact that Flores and its people are, by nature, divided. Anthropologists believe that the line of both active and extinct volcanoes traversing the island led to the creation of pockets of distinct cultures.  Today, there are five primary ethnic/linguistic groups in Flores, unified by the national language of Bahasa Indonesia. In my 10-day journey, I was fortunate to interact with four of these groups:

  • the Manggarai (West Flores)

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    Woman and child pick coffee on a plantation in Wae Rebo Village.

Best known for their striking spider rice paddies (which can still be found near Ruteng), the Manggarai maintain a strong focus on unity, which is reflected in everything from their circular architecture and village layout to strong, enduring clan bonds. The Manggarai believe that their ancestors hailed from Sumatra.

  • the Ngada (Bajawa and environs)

    A woman watches passers by in Bena Village.

Unlike most social groups in Indonesia, the Ngada are matrilineal, meaning that children are considered to be members of their mother’s clan. Ancient Ngada society was organized according to strict hierarchical classes, and their village houses are set up in two parallel lines.

  • the Lio (Ende and environs)

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    Boat motif  at the entrance of the house of of the mosalaki, or clan leader.

The Lio remain some of Flores’ most spiritual / superstitious people, with a strong belief in good and bad spirits, and a vibrant afterlife. (Today, these practices have been incorporated into broader Muslim / Catholic beliefs.) Believing that their ancestors hailed from India, the Lio prominently feature boat symbols in their architecture and weaving to commemorate their long journey.

  • the Sikka (Maumere, Central Flores)

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    Karolina, a Watublapi village elder, inducts me into the ways of her people, dressing me in the  traditional outfit for a middle-aged woman.

Renowned for their intricate ikat weaving (I definitely fell under the spell and walked out of Watublapi Village with more than I entered with!), the Sikka today are divided into two main groups – the Tana ‘Ai and the Sikka-Krowe, through historically they were much more loosely structured than other ethnic groups in Flores. The Sikka-Krowe historically had the most interaction with foreign, er, visitors? invaders? conquerors? and were among the earliest people to convert to Catholicism under the Portuguese.

TRAVEL TIPS

How to Get There

  • By Plane:

Screen Shot 2015-06-02 at 10.57.11 PMDenpasar Bali’s Nugrah Rai Airport is probably the easiest launching point for Flores, where tiny propeller planes (often on rather dubious budget airlines) land several times a day in both Labuan Bajo (1 hour flight) and Maumere (1 hour 45 minutes flight). As of this writing, Garuda also offers limited flights to Labuan Bajo, but at a significantly steeper cost.  Intra island flights also stop at Ende, Bajawa, Ruteng and Larantuka.

  • By Sea:

A number of operators offer tourist boat trips to Flores from Bali and Lombok. It is critical to go with a recommended provider as some boats have dubious safety records and don’t even have basic equipment like life jackets or radios.

  • By Bus/Ferry

Screen Shot 2015-06-02 at 10.58.24 PM Those seeking a real adventure can take a 2-3 day bus/ferry trip from Bali to Labuan Bajo, but this is not a recommended option – particularly when the seas are choppy.

When to Go

Given the generally poor state of infrastructure and the significant amount of trekking required to reach some of the island’s most stunning attractions, travel during the dry season (April-October) is typically best. Note that those traveling towards the end of the season will be greeted with an arid, almost desert-like climate/atmosphere and a lot of dust!

What to Bring (besides the obvious!)

  • Cash You can easily stock up at ATMs/money changers in larger towns like Labuan Bajo, Maumere, Ende and Ruteng – however, smaller towns often don’t have ATMs that accept international cards, and outside of Labuan Bajo it is nearly impossible to use a credit or debit card for purchases. Even if you’re on an “all inclusive” package, extra cash for souvenirs and additional food and beverages is always good to have on hand.
  • Warm Clothing (waterproof jacket, sweatshirts/sweaters, and long pants)  Having been lulled into a false sense of complacency by other so-called “cold places” I’ve visited in Indonesia (Mount Bromo, Lake Toba, etc.) where I definitely overpacked/dressed, I was dismayed to realize just how cold some parts of Flores can get at night. (I could even see my breath in Bajawa, whose temperatures sank to a less-than-balmy 11 degrees centigrade at night.)
  • Extra Clothing and/or Items That Dry Quickly  I generally advocate travelling light. In Flores, however, unless you’re lucky enough to travel at a leisurely pace, you will likely not stay more than a night at any destination. With many stops dropping to practically frigid temperatures, you will not have adequate time to dry your laundry before taking off. And between high temperatures during the day and creepy-crawlies at night, trust me that you will want to change your clothing frequently!
  • Camping-esque Supplies  For long stretches of time, you will find yourself in a literal wilderness without easy access to food, potable water, electricity, and phone/data signal. Not to mention toilets. A good guide will pace your stops out for supply runs of food and snacks (and bathroom breaks!), and in my experience this is one instance where it is better to overestimate your need for drinking water than underestimate. Toilet paper/tissues/wet wipes also come in extremely handy (though traveling anywhere in Asia this should be a given!) Most hotels do not offer shampoo, and some don’t even offer soap, meaning that a toiletry kit is essential. A “power bank” for charging electronics on long electricity-less stretches plus a car adapter for mobile phone charging can be a godsend. And a flashlight is essential for navigating unlit roads/paths, as well as reading after the electricity generators are shut off at 10pm aboard boats and in more remote locations such as Wae Rebo.
  • A Sarong and/or Towel (or pick one up along the way)  If you are really going off the beaten path and staying one of the many traditional villages which offer rustic homestay options, you may find yourself faced with communal or open bathing situations where modesty coverings are a must. I also recommend packing more than one swim suit – again due to the slow drying time – as it is especially nasty (in my opinion) to squelch around in a wet bathing suit.
  • Entertainment  Happily I had downloaded a bunch of podcasts and TV shows prior to leaving Jakarta, and brought along three books, which I continuously swapped out at various tourists stops along the way when I had finished reading them. There is a LOT of down time in Flores – not a bad thing in the slightest – but unlike other areas, with no book stores and weak wifi signals (assuming wifi is available at all), you’re basically stuck with what you bring. Zoning out to my favorite music and NPR’s “Wait Wait Don’t Tell Me” helped me deal with the worst of both car and sea sickness (though happily for the most parts the waters were extremely calm.)

Getting Around:

  • Allow Extra Time Cushions

One of the most challenging things to do is to determine how long it will take to get from Point A to Point B. Any GPS-based map or navigation estimate is completely useless as it will fail to take into account the state of some of the more remote roads, the extra distance required to snake one’s way across winding mountain roads, the reality that landslides can cause sudden road closures, and the fact that you will frequently have to slow down to a crawl whenever two vehicles are simultaneously navigating the narrow roads.

  • Consider Hiring the Same Guide and/or Driver for the Length of your Stay

While I typically avoid tour operators like the plague, travelling solo in Flores, it seemed to me to be the most practical option. On the road (literally!) I met numerous adventurous types braving the treacherous, steep, pitted and curving mountain roads on scooter, as well as a few even braver souls endeavoring to make the journey by bus. But no other solo travellers.  Most people, even more seasoned adventure travelers, elected to go the same route as I. It was definitely considerably more expensive to have both a guide and a driver, but worth it for the hassles and headaches I saved. It was also nice being able to set my own pace (quite literally on the 10 km uphill trek to Wae Rebo village!) and make last minute itinerary changes based on my interests or external environmental factors.

  • Navigate Labuan Bajo on Your Own

In Labuan Bajo, if you are not staying in the city center, it is easy enough to flag down a car or a motorcycle for a quick local ride, or to arrange a driver for day / overnight trips. Most hotels also offer free rides to the airport. Maumere, Bajawa and other “major” cities have local drivers willing to negotiate a set fee for day trips, as well as motorbike rental.

  • Motorbike Tips

Those hoping to rent a motorbike in Labuan Bajo for their self-guided overland adventure should know that only experienced bikers should take this option – and never ride alone. Also, due to a rising incidence of tourists abandoning their rented bikes (e.g., leaving them in Maumere rather than returning them to Labuan Bajo), there are fewer and fewer rental places, and those that remain can often have a waiting list for days. (Even the best plans are frequently waylaid in Flores, so rental operators seldom ask for a fixed “return by” date.) Prices also seem to change at random – one place offering motorbikes for IDR 50,000/day one week would accept no less than IDR 65,000 the next. Finally, note that a 100 cc engine is fine for local joyriding but will not be able to handle the steep mountain roads. Gas stations can be oddly spaced out, but little mom and pop operations sell gas by the liter out of old mineral water bottles. (Note that some less scrupulous vendors have been known to mix water into the petrol – never a pleasant outcome.)   While road signs are abysmal to non-existent –the locals are very friendly and welcoming and generally will point you in (roughly) the right direction.

Food: A Resounding “Meh”

With visions of Macanese-style Portuguese-Chinese fusion cuisine in mind (to this day I firmly believe that the pork chop bun is one of the best snacks of all time), I was eager to sample the delights of Flores cuisine, which I imagined to be the best of Indonesia, Portugal, and Holland on a plate. And, I was soon disavowed of this notion. In Flores, I consumed some of the least palatable food I’ve eaten in all of Indonesia. Didn’t think it was possible to mess up nasi goreng? Neither did I. Until I came to Flores.   Bafflingly, few of the restaurants deemed hygienic enough for tourists serve local fare – instead they offer various takes on the same tired menus – fried rice, fried noodles, fried chicken and pseudo-Chinese style seafood and vegetable dishes. The notable exception was Lucas Café, a restaurant in Bajawa where I gluttonously devoured pork satay and mixed tofu and tempe in fresh tomato sauce – both local specialties that were absolutely delicious.

The best local food I had outside of Lucas Café was in the most unexpected places – a fresh fish grill on one of the 17 Islands, simple home-cooked fare on my overnight Komodo/Rinca boat, and a simple but tasty communal village meal in Wae Rebo.

By the time I arrived in Labuan Bajo I was ecstatic to discover some of the best pizza I’ve eaten in Indonesia at the aptly-named MadeInItaly, and a lovely barracuda carpaccio at its neighbor and rival, Mediterraneo. After a week of drinking instant coffee – an unforgivable sin in my book in one of Indonesia’s most renowned coffee-growing regions – I was almost brought to tears upon stumbling into Café In Hit, which offers not only first rate espresso-based drinks, but even more importantly, a free book exchange which serves as my lifeline as I found myself stranded for 3 additional days due to the unexpected eruption of Mount Raung in East Java and resulting airport closures. I even managed to find a decent burger (my best cure for homesickness) at the Lounge and enjoy coffee with a view at Cucina. (Having this unexpectedly elongated stay in Labuan Bajo, I had ample time to eat my way through the small downtown strip!)

Accommodation: “Expensively Rustic”

Having stayed at perfectly lovely hotels across Java for less than US$30/night – we’re talking clean linens, a/c, hot water, the works – I experienced significant sticker shock in Flores. This was not too big a deal, until I found myself faced with the prospect of being stuck in Labuan Bajo for an unplanned (and unbudgeted!) extended stay due to flight cancellations across the entire region (East Java, Bali, Lombok, and Flores). Thanks for nothing, Mount Raung! You just HAD to erupt now. . . I managed to plead my 3 star hotel in Labuan Bajo down to IDR 700.000 a night (half the rack rate), but still could feel the dollar signs adding up. Though pricey, at least these accommodations were pleasant.

Elsewhere in Flores, I found myself facing cold water showers even in frigid temperatures, and being eaten alive by mosquitoes. Riung was the worst of the lot.   (Well, I guess technically Wae Rebo was worse – but it was so charming that nobody cared!) But with the right expectations and a good sense of adventure, it’s still an unforgettable journey. And most travelers recommend ending your journey in Labuan Bajo, where decent (if pricey) lodging and good food abound.

But when all is said and done, you most certainly have an unforgettable trip ahead of you – and I highly recommend the journey. More details on specific destinations in Flores to follow soon!

Continue on to part two here.

 

Transit Adventures: Planes, Trains, and Automobiles

Any particular trip can be defined by the actual journeys you take. Whether it is simply the act of getting to your intended destination or the mad rush to book a driver for a reasonable price. we tend to find that it is these that define the story of travel. So in the spirit of this, Jennifer and Mark have decided to take time out from our normal ramblings about weekends away, and list some of our most memorable travel transportation experiences.

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Making a rapid escape from apologizing to my better half at Humayun’s Tomb, New Delhi, India

Screen Shot 2015-06-02 at 10.57.11 PMOrdos to Beijing  (2013)

Ordos, Inner Mongolia, has had plenty written about it.  A ghost city of much beauty in the middle of nowhere, Ordos an apt symbol for the modern real estate development of China. Yet, it is also an airport, a beautiful airport, connected to the truly awful Nanyuan Airport in Beijing.

Nanyuan Airport is a tiny old military base on the southern outskirts of Beijing that is hard to get to and even harder to get away from at the wrong time of night.

They also regularly cancel both departing and arriving flights for no apparent reason. Hence, in 2013 Mark found himself stuck in Ordos following a “short” work trip after flight cancellation upon cancellation. The stated reason – rain; the real reason; no one really knew. Anyway, countless flight cancellations, fifty international journalists baying for blood, and a thirteen hour coach ride from the city next to Ordos, ensured this was a trip to remember for all the wrong reasons.  But time heals all wounds, right?

And of course, if you want to read about one of Jennifer’s flight nightmares, you can find it here.

Screen Shot 2015-06-02 at 10.57.48 PMPart I:  Rishikesh – Delhi – Rajasthan (2012)

Mark’s girlfriend is a fantastic traveler. Traveled way more extensively than he has, and often does it without a complaint. However, she is also highly keen to make the most of every moment of every trip and this can lead to friction.

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Train journeys in India are absolutely worth it. Mark enjoys wide expanse of western-India.

Mark and Quint caught a train from Rishikesh to Delhi, which lasted for over ten hours. Once in Delhi they had two or so hours to spare before the next even longer train journey to Rajasthan. He wanted to rest, and she wanted to see a world heritage site (she is admirably trying to see them all.  As in every single one on the globe.) She won. They went to the wrong tomb. Mark sulked. They pretended to smile in pictures. Finally, they found Humayun’s Tomb, the centuries old resting place of Mughal Emperor Humayun. She won again because it is truly spectacular.

This is a central to the Weekend Crossroad philosophy and something we will explore more extensively in future posts.  Why sit around an airport or train lounge when there are more adventures to be had?  (Read about things to do in a layover in Frankfurt here.)

Part II:  Kanyakumari – Thiruvananthapuram (Now we know why they still call it Trivandrum!) 

Meanwhile, two years later, Jennifer was determined to overcome the reported horrors of train travel in India (mostly shared by her Indian friends!)  As a global traveler from the age of 6, Jennifer was not prepared to be daunted in the slightest by the prospect of booking a ticket.  Until faced with the Indian Rail website.  And many, many other challenges.  So like any savvy traveler, Jennifer and her friend Pete sought the kind assistance of a travel expert — an innkeeper in Kochi, Kerala, who kindly helped them to purchase two first class tickets between Kanyakumari, Tamil Nadu and Trivandrum.  Pete and Jennifer noted the distance between the train station and their hotel, inquired as to how long in advance they should arrive at the station, and organized an auto rickshaw ride, and were all set.  Or were they.

Greeted by emphatic head shakes at the local train station, Jennifer and Pete were baffled as to why their tickets were not accepted — and why their train was not listed on the schedule.  Finally, a kind English-speaking soul explained that in fact, they were at the wrong train station.  They could either try to grab a trishaw and rush to the right station (standing a good chance of missing the train) or purchase a new ticket to Trivandrum.  Looking at each other, both decided to opt for the new ticket — especially upon realizing that the cost would be mere cents.  Then they learned why.

As the train choked and struggled up to the platform and a chaotic mad dash of humanity ensued (where DID all these people come from?  They could have sworn that there were not this many people in the station!), Jennifer and Pete helplessly looked around for a place to sit.  Jennifer seriously considered abandoning Pete for the calmer looking women-only car, or hiding in the baggage car, but was soon convinced by Pete that this was NOT in the spirit of weekend crossroad adventure.  They happened across a nice local family who somehow managed to squeeze 1.5 seats out for our two hapless travelers.  Then Pete and Jennifer learned why their tickets were so cheap.

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Jennifer and fellow wanderer Pete explore the southern-most tip of the subcontinent in Tamil Nadu. Their new friends help take a rather cramped selfie on third class rail in South India.

First, there was no air conditioning.  Indeed, there was barely any air circulating in the cramped car.  Sitting as closely as possible to the window (designed in typical “prison chic” manner with iron bars across it), they managed to get a small breeze.  And noticed that in addition to climbing to no more than approx. 40 km an hour, the train stopped at EVERY town, village, and crossing along the way.

But then fantastic things happened.  First, the slow pace enabled them to take in the sights in a way that could never have happened at 100+ km/hr.  Second, Jennifer was proudly able to take off her “princess prima donna” label for a day.  And third, practically ready to gnaw each others’ arms off with hunger upon finally pulling into Trivandrum station, the two discovered a wondrously eccentric and charming coffee house where they enjoyed a scrumptious (and cheap!) lunch.

The lesson?  Sometimes mistakes can lead to the best, unexpected adventures.

Pingyao to Beijing (2008)

Traveling on the wonderfully efficient high speed trains between the major Chinese metropolises (metropoli?) of Bejing, Tianjin, Nanjing, and Shanghai, it’s hard to believe that in the not-so-distant past, train travel in China was something between an adventure and a game of chance.  In 2007 it was impossible to purchase a round trip train ticket between any two Chinese destinations — you had to purchase a one way ticket to your destination — and upon arrival, immediately queue up for a return ticket.  In theory, this system worked.  Unless, like Jennifer and her friend Amy, you chose to travel during a major national holiday (in this case, the October “golden week” celebrating China’s National Day.

Ever adventurous, Jennifer and Amy decided it would be fun to take a day trip (involving two overnight train rides) to the ancient city of Pingyao, in the coal-rich (and highly polluted) Shanxi province.  They would take a hardsleeper train to Pingyao, arriving in the early morning, and spend the day exploring the walled city before catching another evening train back to Beijing where they would enjoy a lazy Sunday before heading back to work the following Monday.  What a great plan!  Amy, who is Caucasian, good-naturedly put up with the ceaseless curiosity of our fellow passengers, and being the more experienced Chinese train traveler of the two, made sure that they were second in line for the return tickets.  (Chinese trains kindly awake you with a loud PA fanfare before you arrive, bleary-eyed, at your destination.)  Money in hand, they approached the ticket window, only to  be told that all trains – to anywhere — were sold out until the following week.

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Outside the city wall.

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Inside the city wall.

Realizing that there was nothing that they could do, Amy and Jennifer proceeded to the historic city center and wandered around.  Despite the grey skies and the air so thick with smog that they could taste it, they were taken with the somewhat decrepit charm of the town, particularly when taken in from the top of the city wall.

1930760_36607677535_1771_nBy early afternoon they had circumnavigated the major sites and enjoyed a lunch of local steamed dumplings.  And realized that it was time to figure out how to get home.  Speaking to a local farmer, they learned that the local bus station was not too far away.  Climbing into his donkey cart, they headed for the terminal, where they were able to purchase tickets to Taiyuan, the provincial capital.  From there, they would catch a cab to the inter-province bus station and catch an overnight bus to Beijing.  Not their preferred mode of transport, but at least it would get them home.

Cramming onto a jumper seat in a mini-bus, Jennifer found herself seated between a crate containing a live (and vociferous!) chicken, and the “old woman with the bag of seemingly never ending odoriferous food” — and braced herself for a bumpy 2 hour ride.

In Taiyuan, Jennifer and Amy finally made it to the inter-province bus station, to find a scene of utter chaos.  Elbowing their way to the front of the line in true local fashion, they amazingly managed to get the two last tickets for the overnight bus to Beijing.  Around them, people in the same boat as they were yelling and crying.  But they were triumphant!  Heading outside, Jennifer spotted a travel agent.  On a whim, she popped in to see if there were any flights to Beijing that night.  Amazingly, there were.  So for around  US $50 apiece, they found a much easier way home.

What to do with the bus tickets?  Heading back to the terminal, they looked for the most “worthy” looking candidate.  They spotted  young man sitting calmly, but dejectedly, in a corner and asked him what was wrong.  He and his son needed to get back to Beijing urgently, but there were no tickets left.  So they were going to sit in the station until a place on a bus opened up.  Jennifer and Amy then sold him their tickets at cost, and with mouth agape and tears in his eyes, he accepted them.  Heading to a nearby McDonald’s to drown their sorrows and stress in junk food, they agreed that that was the highlight of their trip.

As the plane touched down at Beijing’s Capital International Airport, Jennifer reflected on how lucky she was to have options — to have both the means and the ability to jump on a last minute flight, while others had to struggle so much to get from Point A to Point B.  And she was immensely grateful.

Screen Shot 2015-06-02 at 10.58.24 PMChiang Mai to Bangkok (2002)

In 2002, Mark and his then girlfriend were traveling around Thailand with her sister. For their journey from Chiang Mai to Bangkok they booked themselves onto a 13-hour bus journey.

The journey was terrifying. Not only was it on mountain passes and in the pitch black, but the bus appeared to have little or no breaks. Speeding up as it went around corners hoping physics would do its part.

One particular stand out moment was pulling into the gas station, Mark and his fellow international travelers demanding to be let off and the bus driver and his associate refusing. Another bus pulled up next to them, full of Chinese tourists.  To this day Mark wonders what was going through their heads as they were met with thirty or so people banging against the windows of another bus, clearly petrified. But then Mark’s bus pulled off, never to see them again.

Upon reaching Bangkok, everyone all left the coach without saying a word — too stunned, even to express gratitude for being alive despite all the odds.

Do  you have any transit experiences to share?

A Tale of Two Budget Airlines — Part III of III: Marriott is Not An Airline, but AirAsia Could Sure Learn a Thing or Two from Their Customer Service Bible (Book of Mormon?)

Having just rounded up a two-month journey courtesy of the AirAsia ASEAN pass, I thought it would be timely to reflect both on my experience of using this innovative travel resource, and my occasionally difficult adjustment from business traveler to Weekend Explorer (read, budget traveler.) #firstworldproblems

But before I launch into the tale, I acknowledge that people may not have the time to read a lengthy blog post – let alone three. So here is the key takeaway. AirAsia could learn a thing or two about customer service from Marriott.

One of my favorite stories behind the impetus for creating this blog involves a Marriott. Not a bad experience per se, but a disorienting time when I woke up on the third leg of an extended multi-city business trip and needed a few seconds to remember what city I was in. Because Marriotts are almost all the same. This can be comforting to the frequent business traveler who strives for a sense of normalcy on long jaunts away from home – but can also be incredibly disconcerting.

Weekend Crossroad, its writers and readers, by contrast, seek experiences. This involves embracing the unordinary, and the extraordinary, and in some ways is the polar opposite of this philosophy. But this doesn’t mean that we cannot appreciate a business model that, well, works. Or that we don’t occasionally crave the comforts of home.

Every year, my previous employer (a D.C.-based global communication and public affairs consultancy) holds a management meeting where past and future performance is discussed, clients are invited to share first-hand experience of what it’s been like working with the firm and what they expect from top-notch consultants, and guest speakers are invited to energize the team with new ideas. One year, the speaker was Kathleen Matthews, chief communications and public affairs officer (CCPAO?) for Marriott International.

Ms. Matthews (who is married to the bombastic Chris Matthews of Hardball fame) drew both from her experience as a D.C.-area news reporter/anchor and the face a Fortune 500 hospitality company. She explained that the company remains close to its roots (pun intended – the company was founded by John Willard and Alice Sheets Marriott in 1927 as a humble a root beer stand in Washington, D.C.) Marriott’s management philosophy is simple yet effective – If you take good care of your people, then they will take good care of the customer, and the customer will come back.

I’ve seen this in practice time and time again. I’ve had good experiences at Marriotts around the world, as well as some not-so-good ones. I’m presently a Silver Elite member – and while I enjoy several additional perks when staying at a Marriott, what is most important is that I’ve never felt like less of a customer during times where I did not have status (something that United Airlines could learn a thing or two from!)

All of my stories take place in Asia. I feel the need to elaborate on this point for several reasons. First, being half Chinese myself, and having led local teams in China, Malaysia, and Indonesia, I understand the immense cultural barriers that can exist when faced with a more “rah rah” style American management philosophy butts up against a deeply-entrenched sense of hierarchy.   Second, it means that I know that this is not an excuse, and that anyone who uses cultural differences as an rationale for poor understanding/performance has very low awareness themselves. Third, it means that I both recognize, and appreciate, the efforts required from all sides to make things work.

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Photo courtesy of the Shanghai Marriott Hotel Hongqiao

My first story is several years old, and takes place at the Shanghai Marriott Hotel Hongqiao.  The facilities have seen better days but are comfortable enough, and its convenient location by Hongiao airport is a major selling point. I was leading a multi-day media and spokesperson training course for the Pan-Asian executives of an American multinational company. Being a type-A anal-retentive sort, I decided that rather than grabbing a bite at the buffet lunch we had pre-booked for the participants and myself, I would see them down, grab a quick drink to take up with me, and set up for the afternoon session. As I headed out of the coffee shop with a glass of Coke in hand, a young server stopped me. “I’m sorry,” she says politely, “but guests are not allowed to take items out of the restaurant.” “I understand completely,” I reply, “but I’m part of the 20-person party over there and don’t have time for lunch. I simply wanted to take a drink up with me.” She apologized again, and I handed over the glass without another thought. (After all, it IS a completely reasonable policy.) As I’m setting up flip charts and markers in the conference room upstairs, I hear a knock at the door. I see a woman in a neat black suit, carrying a tray with a glass of ice and a can of Coke. Her tag reads “assistant manager,” and she says “I couldn’t help noticing your exchange with the server downstairs, and I wanted to apologize personally for the misunderstanding. It is our policy not to allow guests to remove food or beverages from the coffee shop, but I understand that you are busy and I hope that this will make up for that in a small way.” I was completely speechless. After making sure that she knew that I in no way blamed the server for her actions, I took the drink and sat down to think. Wow. Not only was this a first-rate service action, but how amazing that a junior manager at a restaurant in a Chinese hotel felt comfortable taking initiative to make a not-even-unhappy customer feel valued. For an approximately 25 US. cent can of soda, this individual invested in life-long loyalty. (And gave me fodder for future client service training sessions!)

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How’s that for a lobby lounge?!? Photo courtesy of the Mulu Marriott Resort & Spa.

My second story take place a little over a month ago, at the Mulu Marriot Hotel & Spa.  Having just “endured” the wild Borneo jungle along the Kinabatangan River in Sabah (I say “endured” because I was attacked by leeches, among other critters, but have put it in quotes because the truth is I enjoyed every minute of the experience!), I decide that I have had enough of roughing it and am looking forward to a comfy bed at the end of each day of trekking through Mount Mulu National Park. (A separate post on this incredible experience is forthcoming.) Mulu is an interesting place, and well deserves its UNESCO World Heritage status. But after a particularly strenuous trek, I am disappointed because the “Spa” part of the name refers to a building – with no therapists in it. I am slightly miffed because, truth be told, the Spa part was one of the more compelling reasons why I chose this particular hotel. However, learning that my next stop would be one night at the Miri Marriott Hotel & Spa, the staff kindly contacted the Spa on my behalf to ensure that I had a booking there upon my arrival.

Another challenge was eating. Every hotel/restaurant in Mulu is faced with the same challenge – supply. Food is flown in daily from Miri (explaining the giant Styrofoam coolers on the baggage carousel at both ends of the journey.) This means frequent shortages – even at the Marriott. However, this is explained cheerfully by the staff, and the kitchen does its best to keep customers happy.

The two things that really stuck out were separate encounters I had with various staff. The first, a young Australian manager involved with the opening of the hotel (recently acquired by Marriott in a rather dilapidated state), told me of how he was assigned to oversee the transition, and that meant staying until the formal opening (the resort is still operating at a “soft opening” stage). His job entailed everything from making sure my water glass and coffee mug were filled at all times, to supervising vegetable buys, to negotiating permits with the local government. No job was to big – or too small – for his attention.

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Gorgeous sunset over the South China Sea at the Miri Marriott Hotel & Spa. Photo by Jennifer Hart

My second encounter was with two young Malaysians who worked at the hotel’s sister property in Miri. They were there to experience the park – in order to be able to report first hand on the itineraries they were booking for guests. While taking their jobs seriously, they also believed in having fun. Doing a final trek before jumping on an afternoon puddle-hopper back to Miri, one of them bemoaned not having packed a bathing suit to enjoy swimming in the aptly-named Clearwater River. After a few minutes’ consideration, she threw caution to the wind and leapt in – clothes and all. “I can sit on a towel” she reported cheerfully. “This was totally worth it.”

Photo courtesy of the JW Marriott Hotel, Medan

Photo courtesy of the JW Marriott Hotel, Medan

My third story is from just last week. At two separate stays at the JW Marriott Hotel Medan, I had two entirely different experiences. My first was a disaster. Check-in took ages, neither the A/C nor the minibar in my room worked, and I called down for ice in an effort to cool down (Medan is many things, and steamy is chief among them!)   The icing on the cake was when a young boy from housekeeping (he looked about 18!) handed me a shopping bag full of ice. “Umm, do you have an ice bucket?” I ask. He looks perplexed for a moment, and then says “No.” I ask whether this was purified ice, and am greeted with a blank stare. “Never mind,” I say. I thank him and send him on his way. At this point I am quite peeved.   It’s no so much that I am frustrated at being at a 5-star hotel with thus far 2-star service – it’s that JW Marriott is supposed to be the hotel’s premier chain! Hardly believing this latest experience, I take a quick photo of the plastic bag with my mobile phone and post it on my personal Twitter feed, tagging Marriott International. Within a few hours I have a reply from their global customer service, apologizing profusely for the experience and asking for me to send a private message with my reservation number. But, I’m ashamed to say, I am heading out to the jungle of Bukit Lawang early the next morning and decide to head to bed instead.

Don't take my word alone -- Jennifer braving the entrance to the jungle of Gunung Leuser National Park.

Don’t take my word alone — Jennifer braving the entrance to the jungle of Gunung Leuser National Park.

After an enjoyable, if grueling four days in the jungle, I am looking forward (somewhat paradoxically) to a hot shower and cold A/C. As I limp into the lobby, the woman at the door smiles brightly and greets me with a “welcome back!” (I had asked her for directions on my previous stay and she clearly remembered me, which impressed me to no end!) I shuffle up to the reception desk where the clerk, who also remembers me, tells me that they had been expecting me the previous day. Stupid me, I had booked the wrong night, forgetting that May has 31 days, not 30. (Yes, I STILL do the knuckle counting trick to calculate the days of the month! But clearly not this time.) Now this was 100% my fault, and it would have been within the hotel’s right to charge me for this erroneous stay AND kick me out that same night. But they didn’t. Not only did they cancel my previous reservation with no penalty – they instantly booked me a new room, noting all of the preferences in my profile, and upgraded me to a suite. Noting my profound embarrassment and profuse apologies, the clerk smiled and told me that this happens more than one would think, and that she was just happy to be able to help me. Wow. Am I glad that I didn’t write a nasty Trip Advisor review about my first stay! So you can bet that Marriott will again be my hotel of choice when I resume business travel next year.

As a wise, if ineloquent person once said, “Shit happens.” But damn if this company doesn’t get it right almost every single time.

Backups and Contingency Plans: The Weekend Traveler’s Key Tool

The theft of my iPhone in Senggigi (in all honesty, due ENTIRELY to my own negligence), my very own amusing CSI Lombok experience with the local police and “Find my iPhone” maps that were virtually useless on a largely uncharted island, and the ultimate combination of threats and bribes that finally got the phone back into my own hands, made me realize how much we take for granted, and how easily a weekend voyage can be ruined without adequate advance planning.  But hopefully these tips, and accounts of my own travel snafus, will be of some use!

Even the most seasoned, well-prepared traveler can find him or herself in an unexpected jam.  Sometimes this is entirely of one’s own making (a moment of spaciness, forgetfulness, or general fatigue).  Other times it is simply  an instance of Murphy’s Law, or the universe conspiring to make life inconvenient at the most inopportune moments.  Being prepared for the worst case scenario, however, can make these travel hiccups bearable.  So, in order of likelihood:

1)  Weather

Inclement weather and inappropriate attire can place a spanner in the works of any trip.  Too many times I’ve seen people who traveled for hours turned away from holy shrines due to inappropriate attire, shivering on so-called tropical mountains, or otherwise paying an extortionate amount for appropriate gear on site.  And yes, on occasion I’ve even been one of said travelers.  My weirdest experience was getting caught in a freak rainstorm in Eastern Europe and having to explain to bemused immigration officials how my Hungarian visa stamp had literally washed out of my passport which had been rather foolishly stowed in the back pocket of my jeans.  (I was 19 at the time, so perhaps can be forgiven for the lapse in judgment.)  A more plebeian instance was freezing my butt off on Capetown’s Table Mountain after sunset and having to buy a US$ 100 fleece!

Nowadays I always travel with the following:  a light umbrella in my purse, layering pieces of clothing, and a scarf/sarong that in a pinch can serve as a picnic blanket, beach towel / outdoor changing station, or head/leg covering for visiting holy sites.  I also always throw in a pair of thin flip flops, one pair of sports shoes, and one pair of comfortable but presentable shoes that can go from day to night should an unexpected evening out / business meeting come into play.  While packing too many pairs of shoes is the most common a rookie mistake, bringing only one is equally risky as you are really stuck if your shoes get wet (or, as could only  happen to me, if you fall into an irrigated and fertilized rice paddy and, well, smell a bit ripe.)    Ziploc bags weigh nothing and in a pinch are great for protecting passports, wallets, and mobile phones/cameras, not to mention saving a lot of headache from leaked shampoos, gels or worst of all — oils.  (Remember that changing pressure in the baggage cabin can cause even the most sturdy travel bottles to expand/contract and therefore leak.)  For more intense, rugged travel, investing in a dry bag and/or specialized housing for your phone/camera is a worthwhile expenditure.

2)  Lost/Delayed Luggage

2.1:  BEFORE it is lost.

For most of us, bags missing a flight are simply an inconvenience.  However, before your trip there are a few steps that you can take to minimize risk and/or survive the experience.

Handcarrying the basics:  I always bring at least one extra pair of underwear, an extra shirt, prescription medication, and any other vital items in my carry-on luggage to ensure that I am not stranded unawares.  (You can choose to pack your toothbrush/toiletries, but keep in mind that these are typically easy/cheap to replace.)  I once had to go to a 9 am business meeting in a denim skort and tshirt because my luggage had missed my flight —  which happened to be the last one of the previous evening.  Luckily the meeting was with an NGO and my predicament served as an amusing ice breaker.  But it was a dumb move on my part.

Minimizing distractions and the number of items you need to take out/off in the security lane.  I was once so flustered in the Mumbai airport that I left my laptop in the security lane while running to catch a flight.  But happily I had taped my business card to the bottom of the computer, and when I called the airport upon landing, they had it safely stowed for retrieval by my very kind Indian colleague.  Taking a critical conference call while going through security at Washington National Airport, I left my watch in the bin.  It wasn’t particularly valuable, but I never got it back.  Normally I would have placed it in my bag and grabbed it off the conveyor belt, but being distracted and stressed, I strayed from my routine and paid the price for it.

Properly tagging / marking your bags:  Those with extra cash to burn / higher stakes to lose may wish to consider investing in newer RFID-tagged luggage that ensures that YOU can find your bags even when the airline can’t.   You can also invest in RFID luggage tags for a little less, but don’t make the rookie mistake of placing them on your baggage handle where they can easily break/ fall off.  Place them inside your suitcase.   And remember that even the best technology is useless if you don’t register it in advance.  But even the travel Luddite can maximize the chances for recovery by taking a few small but effective steps.

  • Include a copy of your itinerary (dates and hotel names) INSIDE your luggage.  The best place is the unlocked front pocket of your nylon luggage.  This both helps with identification and ensures that your tropical vacation gear does not get sent back to your home in sub-arctic Michigan mid-vacation.
  • Write your email address and phone number on your luggage tag.
  • Do NOT put your home address on your luggage tag.  This is an open invitation to rogue baggage handlers / thieves who have definitive proof that you are not home.  Use an office address if possible or, as stated, above simply put your electronic contact details.
  • Differentiate your bag.  Reporting a lost, unmarked black ballistic nylon bag is about as helpful as describing an Asian as having dark hair.  Popular tricks include putting colored tape on the bottom of the bag, any variety of luggage belts, yarn/ribbon, and other “crafty” solutions.  Tacky, but effective!
  • Do NOT put fragile stickers on your bag.  This essentially broadcasts that there is something valuable to steal (even if there isn’t.)  Proper packing can insulate almost any breakable item — and if it’s really that valuable/fragile, you should probably be hand carrying it anyway.

Checking airline baggage tags in advance: Yes, mistakes ARE made on occasion.  Ensuring that your bags are going to the right destination is an obvious but frequently overlooked first step.  Fully understanding procedures surrounding international transit (Do you have to clear customs with your luggage and drop it off at a separate belt?  Or does it automatically transfer through?)  is next.  Furthermore, if you are traveling an “unusual” route, don’t assume that the airline staff at your departure airport are fully familiar with the policies and procedures at your destination.  Ask again on the ground.

2.2:  AFTER it is lost.

  • Report it EARLY.  Don’t wait for the luggage belt to stop — by then there will be scores of people in line at the lost baggage desk.  If you’ve seen the same bags go around the loop twice or more, chances are that’s it.
  • Note as MANY details as possible on the form.  Bag type, dimensions, any other identifying marks make it easier to find your luggage if the airline’s tags have accidentally fallen off.  Have your baggage claim stubs handy.
  • Politely request that the staff member try to track WHERE your bag is.  Knowing that it is safely sitting in a specific airport waiting for shipment on the next flight out is VERY comforting.  If it cannot be found, ask about your options (including a stipend for replacing essential items, and potential liability for an irrevocably lost bag.)
  • Keep receipts for any items you purchase to replace essential items as they may be claimable.
  • Ensure that you know how to track the progress of your bag once you leave the airport.  Some airlines have an online system while others will provide you with a contact phone number or email address for updates.
  • Make sure that you leave contact information for the delivery driver to reach you, and an appropriate protocol (do you require a signature?  Can the bags be left on the front porch?)
  • Inform your host / hotel that a bag is expected to be delivered and when it will arrive.  This minimizes confusion upon arrival.

3)  Electronic / Technology Disasters

Theft or travel destruction of electronics while traveling is a surprisingly common occurrence.  I mentioned my own recent phone theft,

  • Backup, backup, backup.  I always back up my laptop onto an external hard drive before I leave for a trip.  What I have neglected to do in the past (and will be far more religious in doing in the future) is to ensure that my phone (and phone photos) are regularly synced to my cloud account.  Learn how to back up iPhone, BlackBerry, and Android devices.  I am probably the only person on the planet without a tablet, but back that up too!
  • Download your camera photos /videos regularly (either to a laptop or even better, onto a cloud account.)  I’ve lost more irreplaceable digital photos than I care to admit over my years of travel.  🙁
  • Know how your phone tracking software works.  Apps like Find My iPhone, Find My Android Phone and BlackBerry Protect make it easier than ever to track your phone and even communicate with the thief / finder.  Through a series of messages that the Find My iPhone app allowed me to post on my phone’s home screen, I was able to both threaten and cajole the thief by informing her that if I blocked the phone it would become a useless brick that she couldn’t resell, whereas by returning it to me she could get a reward.  Happily this turned out to be an effective approach.

4) Theft / Loss of Valuables

 The best solution is not to bring valuables at all.  But of course this isn’t always feasible — so keep these tips in mind.

  • The in-room hotel safe is NOT your friend.  I have countless friends who have lost everything from money to engagement rings and family jewelry by depending on these electronic theft traps.  If you happen to be traveling with a lot of cash, irreplaceable documents, or expensive jewelry, call your hotel manager to arrange for these to be stored in the hotel’s business safe.  Other things, like your passport, ordinary electronics, and day-to-day jewelry are far safer being locked in your luggage than in the in-room safe.
  • Separate your credit cards and cash.  Keeping your money and cards in one place may seem like the organized thing to do, but can be catastrophic when someone walks off with your bag/wallet.  Make sure that you have at least one emergency credit card and extra cash (preferably in an easily convertible currency like USD or Euros) tucked away in a safe location.  Also, in addition to cloud-based backup (I personally use MSecure because of its multi-platform reach) make sure you have the phone numbers of your card companies noted down in a notebook or other safe place so that you can instantly call to cancel/replace your stolen cards.
  • Consider whether a wallet is the way to go.  Long ago on a trip to Rome, an Italian friend gave me some great advice that I still use to this day when traveling to places renowed for pickpockets.  Put your money loose at the bottom of your bag and hold it tightly — that makes it almost impossible for a pickpocket to do a quick “slight of hand” move.
  • Have photos of any valuables that you are bringing with you readily available to include with any police / insurance company report.

5)  Fine Print / Contractual Issues

Visa Policy:  Arriving in Vientiane on a late night flight last month, I found myself in line behind a German tourist who was incredulous that the visa counter did not accept credit cards.  Luckily for her, I had extra USD cash on hand and managed to do a quick exchange.  Five seconds on the immigration and customs website could have saved here this hassle.  China has been known to incarcerate visa overstayers (though they are typically fined).  So caveat emptor!

Flight Delays:  Most people assume that if a flight delay prevents you from making a connection, that the airline is responsible for finding you an alternative flight at no cost.  This is rarely the case if you have booked two separate itineraries independently.  When you make travel plans, especially to places notorious for delays, weight the costs and benefits carefully.

Not Checking for Errors:  More times than I can count, I’ve found my name misspelled or in the wrong order on airline and train tickets.  With heightened security around the world, this simple error could mean that you will not be allowed to travel.  Recently in New Zealand, a friend of mine got a notice from the airline that her original connecting flight had been cancelled and, as a result, they had booked her on an alternative flight.  This would have been fine in theory, but it turned out that they flight they had rebooked her on departed EARLIER than her originating flight.  There was no way humanly possible for her to make it.  Given that she had important meetings the next day, this would have been a disaster for her.

6)  Force Majeure

Even in my own short life I have lived through some actually scary (Philippine People Power Revolution, Tiananmen Square) and overhyped (Y2K, Indonesia’s remarkably calm 2014 election).  I’ve also some close calls (airport bombing in Karachi, typhoons/hurricanes,  Sichuan earthquake.  It is generally a good practice to register your travel plans with your home embassy to ensure that they update you on evacuation plans should unexpected force majeure incidents impact your travel plans.  Most of my friends think this is crazy paranoia, but having been evacuated twice out of two different countries, I feel that two clicks on a website are well worth the peace of mind.

7)  Don’t Give Up! 

Finally, even when faced with the most intractable policies, never give up.  From asking to speak to someone more senior, to approaching a newspaper’s travel ombudsman, better business bureau, or regulatory agency, you may still be able to resolve your problem.  And remember that you can catch more flies with honey than vinegar — losing your cool or being insulting/arrogant with staff will far more likely harm than help your case.  (Pleading my case with a Jet Star check-in agent in Singapore and getting her sympathy saved me from baggage fees that would have exceeded my ticket price!)

 In short, expect the best, prepare for the worst — and either way remember to enjoy your trip!  Sometimes the worst travel disasters make the best stories. . .