Weekend Crossroad is excited to introduce Weekend Whims – our newest section where contributors will submit personal tips about cities where we have lived / spent considerable amounts of time.
Watch this space!
Malta: A Tiny Slice of Heaven at the Crossroads of Culture
I’ve mentioned in other posts that my trip to Malta sprang from one of my core travel philosophies – if you know someone in an interesting, far away place that you might never otherwise have occasion to visit, pack your bags and go for it. October, 2007 was an interesting time to be in the archipelago nation. (Rather than being a single island as is commonly believed, Malta is actually comprised of three inhabited islands and a number of smaller, rocky outcrops). The country was frantically preparing for further assimilation into the EU, with unmanned Schengen immigration counters already set up at the Malta International Airport, and a countdown clock by Valetta’s City Gate marking the days, hours, and minutes until the Euro would be officially adopted. (Frankly, I was delighted to still be able to use the Maltese lira!) Note that this adventure is eight years old – but general itinerary items should still be doable!
As my plane descends, I find myself faced with scenery unlike any I’ve ever seen before. Yellow walls and grey walks rocks with only the slightest hint of scrubby vegetation extend as far as the eye can see. The sea is a beautiful and almost mysterious shade of deep blue. And I can see the entire island nation from the sky!
Theme I: A Tale of Two Cities
Mdina
As the only person with Asian features in the airport I am highly amused by the fact that I spot my friends Greg and Marco – who look almost exactly like everyone else – before they see me. A diplomat well-versed in the perils of jet lag, Marco sits firmly in the “fight through it” camp. Plunking my luggage in the trunk, he heads straight for Mdina, the Silent City.
Almost entirely carless, Mdina is the perfect place to lose yourself, meandering through narrow alleys for a couple of hours. We briefly pop into St. Paul’s Cathedral, built on the spot where then governor and now Maltese saint Publius allegedly met St. Paul after he was shipwrecked on Malta. We also visit Palazzo Falson, a wonderfully preserved medieval palace. Noting that I am flagging after a couple of hours soaking up the admittedly marvelous atmosphere, he marches our trio to a small café, where we met up with some of their friends. (I discover throughout the trip that it is almost impossible to go anywhere on the island without bumping into at least one person you know!)
Dining at home with Greg, Marco, and some of their friends, I alternate devoting all of my energy trying not to fall asleep on my plate with peppering the local Maltese experts with all sorts of questions about the seemingly impossible, consonant-filled Maltese language, and the intersection of Arab, Roman, and English cultures.
Valetta
Maltese buses! If you watch the movie Munich, you’ll notice these buses in the background in “Jerusalem” and “Rome”
The next morning, Greg and I hop on a wonderfully quaint orange Malta bus (sadly but perhaps practically discontinued in 2011) to Valetta. Our first stop is St. John’s Co-Cathedral, quite possibly the most beautiful and ornate house of worship I have ever seen. And that is really saying something given my lifetime of travel across the globe.
My little “point and shoot” camera does not do this amazing architectural work of art justice. . .
I am surprised to discover that I am absolutely FASCINATED by the Knights of Malta – or more accurately, the Sovereign Hospitaller Order of the Knights of St. John of Jerusalem, of Rhodes and of Malta. One of the reasons that the church is so over-the-top amazing is that each group of knights tried to outdo the next through ever expanding contributions. The talented but hot-headed Caravaggio also had a rather checkered history on the island.
We head to Valetta’s Church of Saint Paul’s Shipwreck (I’m learning that this maritime disaster is a BIG deal in Malta!). While there is no comparison from a grand aesthetic/architectural point of view – it’s a truly lovely example of traditional Maltese baroque architecture and is both calm and inviting.
We stroll through the Upper Barrakka Gardens where we enjoy stunning panoramic views of the Grand Harbor. Greg jokes that we have missed the Saluting Battery, and says that for some reason he always seems to arrive minutes too late. While it would have been cool to see, I must admit that I greatly enjoy the peace.
We end the day browsing among local artisans making filigree jewelry on Republic street – and being me, I can’t resist picking up a pair of silver earrings to adorn myself and commemorate the trip.
Theme II: Megalithic Marvels
The Hypogeum of Ħal-Saflieni (severe claustrophobes beware)
Greg and Marco are good friends and have booked my admission to the Hypogeum of Ħal-Saflieni in advance (a MUST as daily admissions are strictly limited to reduce the impact on the fragile environment). The aptly-named Hypogeum (Greek for underground) is at once incredibly cool (both literally and figuratively!) and somewhat creepy (it is a necropolis after all!) While it is not known exactly when the structure was built, historians’ estimates range from 4000-3000 BC. The tour is a bit rushed, but certainly interesting – particularly when you consider how old it is! While I am generally not one for random knickknacks, something about the prone image of the rotund and wonderfully detailed Sleeping Lady of Ħal-Saflieni speaks to me, and I pick up a replica at the gift shop.
Megalithic Temple
We begin at the Tarxien temples, site of 4 temples built between 3600 and 2500 BC. Marco explains that as a child he and his friends would play among the giant “rocks” without realizing their historic significance. I am amazed at how well preserved some of the relief sculptures are, given their age. Our special next stop is Hagar Qim “Close your eyes,” said Marco with a gleam in his eye. Gently taking me by the shoulders, he guides me to a nondescript rock. Bending my knees down to “just the right angle,” he explains that this was the exact vantage point that a renowned National Geographic photographer chose to capture the UNESCO World Heritage Sites, in all its glory. (Note, some of the megalithic temple sites have been closed for renovation at various times over the past few years, so do comprehensive research first to avoid disappointment!) At the temple site of Mnajdra, my friend Greg proudly poses for me to provide perspective – either he is really tall (which he isn’t. . .) or, more accurately, the megalithic peoples were vertically challenged! It is humbling to realize the lasting accomplishments of these long-gone civilizations from millennia ago, and one can’t help but wonder what, if any, impact we will leave for the future.
Theme III: Color in Nature
I mentioned being struck by colors at the beginning of this post – and indeed, my sensory exploration continued during the latter part of my trip. The Blue Grotto, a sea cave on the southern coast of Malta, was one such place. Now while one might im
agine the water itself to provide the luminescent blue tinge, but it is in fact the pure white sand that lends the area its unique hue. And it’s not just the water. The cave itself is home to a veritable rainbow of colors – from bright mineral yellows and oranges to deep purples, and a variety of submerged fauna.
We end the day with some relaxation at Għajn Tuffieħa beach, a quiet beach and steep hike down to a crescent shaped promontory that is TOTALLY worth it – especially at sunset. Enjoying our relaxed states, we proceed to an outdoor restaurant at The Three Cities to enjoy first hand Malta’s maritime history coming to life.
Believe it or not I never made it to Gozo, a much less developed island that is renowned for its own charms. No worries though – it provides me an EXCELLENT reason to return. . .
Transit Adventures: Planes, Trains, and Automobiles
Any particular trip can be defined by the actual journeys you take. Whether it is simply the act of getting to your intended destination or the mad rush to book a driver for a reasonable price. we tend to find that it is these that define the story of travel. So in the spirit of this, Jennifer and Mark have decided to take time out from our normal ramblings about weekends away, and list some of our most memorable travel transportation experiences.
Making a rapid escape from apologizing to my better half at Humayun’s Tomb, New Delhi, India
Ordos to Beijing (2013)
Ordos, Inner Mongolia, has had plenty written about it. A ghost city of much beauty in the middle of nowhere, Ordos an apt symbol for the modern real estate development of China. Yet, it is also an airport, a beautiful airport, connected to the truly awful Nanyuan Airport in Beijing.
Nanyuan Airport is a tiny old military base on the southern outskirts of Beijing that is hard to get to and even harder to get away from at the wrong time of night.
They also regularly cancel both departing and arriving flights for no apparent reason. Hence, in 2013 Mark found himself stuck in Ordos following a “short” work trip after flight cancellation upon cancellation. The stated reason – rain; the real reason; no one really knew. Anyway, countless flight cancellations, fifty international journalists baying for blood, and a thirteen hour coach ride from the city next to Ordos, ensured this was a trip to remember for all the wrong reasons. But time heals all wounds, right?
And of course, if you want to read about one of Jennifer’s flight nightmares, you can find it here.
Part I: Rishikesh – Delhi – Rajasthan (2012)
Mark’s girlfriend is a fantastic traveler. Traveled way more extensively than he has, and often does it without a complaint. However, she is also highly keen to make the most of every moment of every trip and this can lead to friction.
Train journeys in India are absolutely worth it. Mark enjoys wide expanse of western-India.
Mark and Quint caught a train from Rishikesh to Delhi, which lasted for over ten hours. Once in Delhi they had two or so hours to spare before the next even longer train journey to Rajasthan. He wanted to rest, and she wanted to see a world heritage site (she is admirably trying to see them all. As in every single one on the globe.) She won. They went to the wrong tomb. Mark sulked. They pretended to smile in pictures. Finally, they found Humayun’s Tomb, the centuries old resting place of Mughal Emperor Humayun. She won again because it is truly spectacular.
This is a central to the Weekend Crossroad philosophy and something we will explore more extensively in future posts. Why sit around an airport or train lounge when there are more adventures to be had? (Read about things to do in a layover in Frankfurt here.)
Part II: Kanyakumari – Thiruvananthapuram (Now we know why they still call it Trivandrum!)
Meanwhile, two years later, Jennifer was determined to overcome the reported horrors of train travel in India (mostly shared by her Indian friends!) As a global traveler from the age of 6, Jennifer was not prepared to be daunted in the slightest by the prospect of booking a ticket. Until faced with the Indian Rail website. And many, many other challenges. So like any savvy traveler, Jennifer and her friend Pete sought the kind assistance of a travel expert — an innkeeper in Kochi, Kerala, who kindly helped them to purchase two first class tickets between Kanyakumari, Tamil Nadu and Trivandrum. Pete and Jennifer noted the distance between the train station and their hotel, inquired as to how long in advance they should arrive at the station, and organized an auto rickshaw ride, and were all set. Or were they.
Greeted by emphatic head shakes at the local train station, Jennifer and Pete were baffled as to why their tickets were not accepted — and why their train was not listed on the schedule. Finally, a kind English-speaking soul explained that in fact, they were at the wrong train station. They could either try to grab a trishaw and rush to the right station (standing a good chance of missing the train) or purchase a new ticket to Trivandrum. Looking at each other, both decided to opt for the new ticket — especially upon realizing that the cost would be mere cents. Then they learned why.
As the train choked and struggled up to the platform and a chaotic mad dash of humanity ensued (where DID all these people come from? They could have sworn that there were not this many people in the station!), Jennifer and Pete helplessly looked around for a place to sit. Jennifer seriously considered abandoning Pete for the calmer looking women-only car, or hiding in the baggage car, but was soon convinced by Pete that this was NOT in the spirit of weekend crossroad adventure. They happened across a nice local family who somehow managed to squeeze 1.5 seats out for our two hapless travelers. Then Pete and Jennifer learned why their tickets were so cheap.
Jennifer and fellow wanderer Pete explore the southern-most tip of the subcontinent in Tamil Nadu. Their new friends help take a rather cramped selfie on third class rail in South India.
First, there was no air conditioning. Indeed, there was barely any air circulating in the cramped car. Sitting as closely as possible to the window (designed in typical “prison chic” manner with iron bars across it), they managed to get a small breeze. And noticed that in addition to climbing to no more than approx. 40 km an hour, the train stopped at EVERY town, village, and crossing along the way.
But then fantastic things happened. First, the slow pace enabled them to take in the sights in a way that could never have happened at 100+ km/hr. Second, Jennifer was proudly able to take off her “princess prima donna” label for a day. And third, practically ready to gnaw each others’ arms off with hunger upon finally pulling into Trivandrum station, the two discovered a wondrously eccentric and charming coffee house where they enjoyed a scrumptious (and cheap!) lunch.
The lesson? Sometimes mistakes can lead to the best, unexpected adventures.
Pingyao to Beijing (2008)
Traveling on the wonderfully efficient high speed trains between the major Chinese metropolises (metropoli?) of Bejing, Tianjin, Nanjing, and Shanghai, it’s hard to believe that in the not-so-distant past, train travel in China was something between an adventure and a game of chance. In 2007 it was impossible to purchase a round trip train ticket between any two Chinese destinations — you had to purchase a one way ticket to your destination — and upon arrival, immediately queue up for a return ticket. In theory, this system worked. Unless, like Jennifer and her friend Amy, you chose to travel during a major national holiday (in this case, the October “golden week” celebrating China’s National Day.
Ever adventurous, Jennifer and Amy decided it would be fun to take a day trip (involving two overnight train rides) to the ancient city of Pingyao, in the coal-rich (and highly polluted) Shanxi province. They would take a hardsleeper train to Pingyao, arriving in the early morning, and spend the day exploring the walled city before catching another evening train back to Beijing where they would enjoy a lazy Sunday before heading back to work the following Monday. What a great plan! Amy, who is Caucasian, good-naturedly put up with the ceaseless curiosity of our fellow passengers, and being the more experienced Chinese train traveler of the two, made sure that they were second in line for the return tickets. (Chinese trains kindly awake you with a loud PA fanfare before you arrive, bleary-eyed, at your destination.) Money in hand, they approached the ticket window, only to be told that all trains – to anywhere — were sold out until the following week.
Outside the city wall.
Inside the city wall.
Realizing that there was nothing that they could do, Amy and Jennifer proceeded to the historic city center and wandered around. Despite the grey skies and the air so thick with smog that they could taste it, they were taken with the somewhat decrepit charm of the town, particularly when taken in from the top of the city wall.
By early afternoon they had circumnavigated the major sites and enjoyed a lunch of local steamed dumplings. And realized that it was time to figure out how to get home. Speaking to a local farmer, they learned that the local bus station was not too far away. Climbing into his donkey cart, they headed for the terminal, where they were able to purchase tickets to Taiyuan, the provincial capital. From there, they would catch a cab to the inter-province bus station and catch an overnight bus to Beijing. Not their preferred mode of transport, but at least it would get them home.
Cramming onto a jumper seat in a mini-bus, Jennifer found herself seated between a crate containing a live (and vociferous!) chicken, and the “old woman with the bag of seemingly never ending odoriferous food” — and braced herself for a bumpy 2 hour ride.
In Taiyuan, Jennifer and Amy finally made it to the inter-province bus station, to find a scene of utter chaos. Elbowing their way to the front of the line in true local fashion, they amazingly managed to get the two last tickets for the overnight bus to Beijing. Around them, people in the same boat as they were yelling and crying. But they were triumphant! Heading outside, Jennifer spotted a travel agent. On a whim, she popped in to see if there were any flights to Beijing that night. Amazingly, there were. So for around US $50 apiece, they found a much easier way home.
What to do with the bus tickets? Heading back to the terminal, they looked for the most “worthy” looking candidate. They spotted young man sitting calmly, but dejectedly, in a corner and asked him what was wrong. He and his son needed to get back to Beijing urgently, but there were no tickets left. So they were going to sit in the station until a place on a bus opened up. Jennifer and Amy then sold him their tickets at cost, and with mouth agape and tears in his eyes, he accepted them. Heading to a nearby McDonald’s to drown their sorrows and stress in junk food, they agreed that that was the highlight of their trip.
As the plane touched down at Beijing’s Capital International Airport, Jennifer reflected on how lucky she was to have options — to have both the means and the ability to jump on a last minute flight, while others had to struggle so much to get from Point A to Point B. And she was immensely grateful.
Chiang Mai to Bangkok (2002)
In 2002, Mark and his then girlfriend were traveling around Thailand with her sister. For their journey from Chiang Mai to Bangkok they booked themselves onto a 13-hour bus journey.
The journey was terrifying. Not only was it on mountain passes and in the pitch black, but the bus appeared to have little or no breaks. Speeding up as it went around corners hoping physics would do its part.
One particular stand out moment was pulling into the gas station, Mark and his fellow international travelers demanding to be let off and the bus driver and his associate refusing. Another bus pulled up next to them, full of Chinese tourists. To this day Mark wonders what was going through their heads as they were met with thirty or so people banging against the windows of another bus, clearly petrified. But then Mark’s bus pulled off, never to see them again.
Upon reaching Bangkok, everyone all left the coach without saying a word — too stunned, even to express gratitude for being alive despite all the odds.
Do you have any transit experiences to share?
A Tale of Two Budget Airlines — Part III of III: Marriott is Not An Airline, but AirAsia Could Sure Learn a Thing or Two from Their Customer Service Bible (Book of Mormon?)
Having just rounded up a two-month journey courtesy of the AirAsia ASEAN pass, I thought it would be timely to reflect both on my experience of using this innovative travel resource, and my occasionally difficult adjustment from business traveler to Weekend Explorer (read, budget traveler.) #firstworldproblems
But before I launch into the tale, I acknowledge that people may not have the time to read a lengthy blog post – let alone three. So here is the key takeaway. AirAsia could learn a thing or two about customer service from Marriott.
One of my favorite stories behind the impetus for creating this blog involves a Marriott. Not a bad experience per se, but a disorienting time when I woke up on the third leg of an extended multi-city business trip and needed a few seconds to remember what city I was in. Because Marriotts are almost all the same. This can be comforting to the frequent business traveler who strives for a sense of normalcy on long jaunts away from home – but can also be incredibly disconcerting.
Weekend Crossroad, its writers and readers, by contrast, seek experiences. This involves embracing the unordinary, and the extraordinary, and in some ways is the polar opposite of this philosophy. But this doesn’t mean that we cannot appreciate a business model that, well, works. Or that we don’t occasionally crave the comforts of home.
Every year, my previous employer (a D.C.-based global communication and public affairs consultancy) holds a management meeting where past and future performance is discussed, clients are invited to share first-hand experience of what it’s been like working with the firm and what they expect from top-notch consultants, and guest speakers are invited to energize the team with new ideas. One year, the speaker was Kathleen Matthews, chief communications and public affairs officer (CCPAO?) for Marriott International.
Ms. Matthews (who is married to the bombastic Chris Matthews of Hardball fame) drew both from her experience as a D.C.-area news reporter/anchor and the face a Fortune 500 hospitality company. She explained that the company remains close to its roots (pun intended – the company was founded by John Willard and Alice Sheets Marriott in 1927 as a humble a root beer stand in Washington, D.C.) Marriott’s management philosophy is simple yet effective – If you take good care of your people, then they will take good care of the customer, and the customer will come back.
I’ve seen this in practice time and time again. I’ve had good experiences at Marriotts around the world, as well as some not-so-good ones. I’m presently a Silver Elite member – and while I enjoy several additional perks when staying at a Marriott, what is most important is that I’ve never felt like less of a customer during times where I did not have status (something that United Airlines could learn a thing or two from!)
All of my stories take place in Asia. I feel the need to elaborate on this point for several reasons. First, being half Chinese myself, and having led local teams in China, Malaysia, and Indonesia, I understand the immense cultural barriers that can exist when faced with a more “rah rah” style American management philosophy butts up against a deeply-entrenched sense of hierarchy. Second, it means that I know that this is not an excuse, and that anyone who uses cultural differences as an rationale for poor understanding/performance has very low awareness themselves. Third, it means that I both recognize, and appreciate, the efforts required from all sides to make things work.
Photo courtesy of the Shanghai Marriott Hotel Hongqiao
My first story is several years old, and takes place at the Shanghai Marriott Hotel Hongqiao. The facilities have seen better days but are comfortable enough, and its convenient location by Hongiao airport is a major selling point. I was leading a multi-day media and spokesperson training course for the Pan-Asian executives of an American multinational company. Being a type-A anal-retentive sort, I decided that rather than grabbing a bite at the buffet lunch we had pre-booked for the participants and myself, I would see them down, grab a quick drink to take up with me, and set up for the afternoon session. As I headed out of the coffee shop with a glass of Coke in hand, a young server stopped me. “I’m sorry,” she says politely, “but guests are not allowed to take items out of the restaurant.” “I understand completely,” I reply, “but I’m part of the 20-person party over there and don’t have time for lunch. I simply wanted to take a drink up with me.” She apologized again, and I handed over the glass without another thought. (After all, it IS a completely reasonable policy.) As I’m setting up flip charts and markers in the conference room upstairs, I hear a knock at the door. I see a woman in a neat black suit, carrying a tray with a glass of ice and a can of Coke. Her tag reads “assistant manager,” and she says “I couldn’t help noticing your exchange with the server downstairs, and I wanted to apologize personally for the misunderstanding. It is our policy not to allow guests to remove food or beverages from the coffee shop, but I understand that you are busy and I hope that this will make up for that in a small way.” I was completely speechless. After making sure that she knew that I in no way blamed the server for her actions, I took the drink and sat down to think. Wow. Not only was this a first-rate service action, but how amazing that a junior manager at a restaurant in a Chinese hotel felt comfortable taking initiative to make a not-even-unhappy customer feel valued. For an approximately 25 US. cent can of soda, this individual invested in life-long loyalty. (And gave me fodder for future client service training sessions!)
How’s that for a lobby lounge?!? Photo courtesy of the Mulu Marriott Resort & Spa.
My second story take place a little over a month ago, at the Mulu Marriot Hotel & Spa. Having just “endured” the wild Borneo jungle along the Kinabatangan River in Sabah (I say “endured” because I was attacked by leeches, among other critters, but have put it in quotes because the truth is I enjoyed every minute of the experience!), I decide that I have had enough of roughing it and am looking forward to a comfy bed at the end of each day of trekking through Mount Mulu National Park. (A separate post on this incredible experience is forthcoming.) Mulu is an interesting place, and well deserves its UNESCO World Heritage status. But after a particularly strenuous trek, I am disappointed because the “Spa” part of the name refers to a building – with no therapists in it. I am slightly miffed because, truth be told, the Spa part was one of the more compelling reasons why I chose this particular hotel. However, learning that my next stop would be one night at the Miri Marriott Hotel & Spa, the staff kindly contacted the Spa on my behalf to ensure that I had a booking there upon my arrival.
Another challenge was eating. Every hotel/restaurant in Mulu is faced with the same challenge – supply. Food is flown in daily from Miri (explaining the giant Styrofoam coolers on the baggage carousel at both ends of the journey.) This means frequent shortages – even at the Marriott. However, this is explained cheerfully by the staff, and the kitchen does its best to keep customers happy.
The two things that really stuck out were separate encounters I had with various staff. The first, a young Australian manager involved with the opening of the hotel (recently acquired by Marriott in a rather dilapidated state), told me of how he was assigned to oversee the transition, and that meant staying until the formal opening (the resort is still operating at a “soft opening” stage). His job entailed everything from making sure my water glass and coffee mug were filled at all times, to supervising vegetable buys, to negotiating permits with the local government. No job was to big – or too small – for his attention.
Gorgeous sunset over the South China Sea at the Miri Marriott Hotel & Spa. Photo by Jennifer Hart
My second encounter was with two young Malaysians who worked at the hotel’s sister property in Miri. They were there to experience the park – in order to be able to report first hand on the itineraries they were booking for guests. While taking their jobs seriously, they also believed in having fun. Doing a final trek before jumping on an afternoon puddle-hopper back to Miri, one of them bemoaned not having packed a bathing suit to enjoy swimming in the aptly-named Clearwater River. After a few minutes’ consideration, she threw caution to the wind and leapt in – clothes and all. “I can sit on a towel” she reported cheerfully. “This was totally worth it.”
Photo courtesy of the JW Marriott Hotel, Medan
My third story is from just last week. At two separate stays at the JW Marriott Hotel Medan, I had two entirely different experiences. My first was a disaster. Check-in took ages, neither the A/C nor the minibar in my room worked, and I called down for ice in an effort to cool down (Medan is many things, and steamy is chief among them!) The icing on the cake was when a young boy from housekeeping (he looked about 18!) handed me a shopping bag full of ice. “Umm, do you have an ice bucket?” I ask. He looks perplexed for a moment, and then says “No.” I ask whether this was purified ice, and am greeted with a blank stare. “Never mind,” I say. I thank him and send him on his way. At this point I am quite peeved. It’s no so much that I am frustrated at being at a 5-star hotel with thus far 2-star service – it’s that JW Marriott is supposed to be the hotel’s premier chain! Hardly believing this latest experience, I take a quick photo of the plastic bag with my mobile phone and post it on my personal Twitter feed, tagging Marriott International. Within a few hours I have a reply from their global customer service, apologizing profusely for the experience and asking for me to send a private message with my reservation number. But, I’m ashamed to say, I am heading out to the jungle of Bukit Lawang early the next morning and decide to head to bed instead.
Don’t take my word alone — Jennifer braving the entrance to the jungle of Gunung Leuser National Park.
After an enjoyable, if grueling four days in the jungle, I am looking forward (somewhat paradoxically) to a hot shower and cold A/C. As I limp into the lobby, the woman at the door smiles brightly and greets me with a “welcome back!” (I had asked her for directions on my previous stay and she clearly remembered me, which impressed me to no end!) I shuffle up to the reception desk where the clerk, who also remembers me, tells me that they had been expecting me the previous day. Stupid me, I had booked the wrong night, forgetting that May has 31 days, not 30. (Yes, I STILL do the knuckle counting trick to calculate the days of the month! But clearly not this time.) Now this was 100% my fault, and it would have been within the hotel’s right to charge me for this erroneous stay AND kick me out that same night. But they didn’t. Not only did they cancel my previous reservation with no penalty – they instantly booked me a new room, noting all of the preferences in my profile, and upgraded me to a suite. Noting my profound embarrassment and profuse apologies, the clerk smiled and told me that this happens more than one would think, and that she was just happy to be able to help me. Wow. Am I glad that I didn’t write a nasty Trip Advisor review about my first stay! So you can bet that Marriott will again be my hotel of choice when I resume business travel next year.
As a wise, if ineloquent person once said, “Shit happens.” But damn if this company doesn’t get it right almost every single time.
Backups and Contingency Plans: The Weekend Traveler’s Key Tool
The theft of my iPhone in Senggigi (in all honesty, due ENTIRELY to my own negligence), my very own amusing CSI Lombok experience with the local police and “Find my iPhone” maps that were virtually useless on a largely uncharted island, and the ultimate combination of threats and bribes that finally got the phone back into my own hands, made me realize how much we take for granted, and how easily a weekend voyage can be ruined without adequate advance planning. But hopefully these tips, and accounts of my own travel snafus, will be of some use!
Even the most seasoned, well-prepared traveler can find him or herself in an unexpected jam. Sometimes this is entirely of one’s own making (a moment of spaciness, forgetfulness, or general fatigue). Other times it is simply an instance of Murphy’s Law, or the universe conspiring to make life inconvenient at the most inopportune moments. Being prepared for the worst case scenario, however, can make these travel hiccups bearable. So, in order of likelihood:
1) Weather
Inclement weather and inappropriate attire can place a spanner in the works of any trip. Too many times I’ve seen people who traveled for hours turned away from holy shrines due to inappropriate attire, shivering on so-called tropical mountains, or otherwise paying an extortionate amount for appropriate gear on site. And yes, on occasion I’ve even been one of said travelers. My weirdest experience was getting caught in a freak rainstorm in Eastern Europe and having to explain to bemused immigration officials how my Hungarian visa stamp had literally washed out of my passport which had been rather foolishly stowed in the back pocket of my jeans. (I was 19 at the time, so perhaps can be forgiven for the lapse in judgment.) A more plebeian instance was freezing my butt off on Capetown’s Table Mountain after sunset and having to buy a US$ 100 fleece!
Nowadays I always travel with the following: a light umbrella in my purse, layering pieces of clothing, and a scarf/sarong that in a pinch can serve as a picnic blanket, beach towel / outdoor changing station, or head/leg covering for visiting holy sites. I also always throw in a pair of thin flip flops, one pair of sports shoes, and one pair of comfortable but presentable shoes that can go from day to night should an unexpected evening out / business meeting come into play. While packing too many pairs of shoes is the most common a rookie mistake, bringing only one is equally risky as you are really stuck if your shoes get wet (or, as could only happen to me, if you fall into an irrigated and fertilized rice paddy and, well, smell a bit ripe.) Ziploc bags weigh nothing and in a pinch are great for protecting passports, wallets, and mobile phones/cameras, not to mention saving a lot of headache from leaked shampoos, gels or worst of all — oils. (Remember that changing pressure in the baggage cabin can cause even the most sturdy travel bottles to expand/contract and therefore leak.) For more intense, rugged travel, investing in a dry bag and/or specialized housing for your phone/camera is a worthwhile expenditure.
2) Lost/Delayed Luggage
2.1: BEFORE it is lost.
For most of us, bags missing a flight are simply an inconvenience. However, before your trip there are a few steps that you can take to minimize risk and/or survive the experience.
Handcarrying the basics: I always bring at least one extra pair of underwear, an extra shirt, prescription medication, and any other vital items in my carry-on luggage to ensure that I am not stranded unawares. (You can choose to pack your toothbrush/toiletries, but keep in mind that these are typically easy/cheap to replace.) I once had to go to a 9 am business meeting in a denim skort and tshirt because my luggage had missed my flight — which happened to be the last one of the previous evening. Luckily the meeting was with an NGO and my predicament served as an amusing ice breaker. But it was a dumb move on my part.
Minimizing distractions and the number of items you need to take out/off in the security lane. I was once so flustered in the Mumbai airport that I left my laptop in the security lane while running to catch a flight. But happily I had taped my business card to the bottom of the computer, and when I called the airport upon landing, they had it safely stowed for retrieval by my very kind Indian colleague. Taking a critical conference call while going through security at Washington National Airport, I left my watch in the bin. It wasn’t particularly valuable, but I never got it back. Normally I would have placed it in my bag and grabbed it off the conveyor belt, but being distracted and stressed, I strayed from my routine and paid the price for it.
Properly tagging / marking your bags: Those with extra cash to burn / higher stakes to lose may wish to consider investing in newer RFID-tagged luggage that ensures that YOU can find your bags even when the airline can’t. You can also invest in RFID luggage tags for a little less, but don’t make the rookie mistake of placing them on your baggage handle where they can easily break/ fall off. Place them inside your suitcase. And remember that even the best technology is useless if you don’t register it in advance. But even the travel Luddite can maximize the chances for recovery by taking a few small but effective steps.
- Include a copy of your itinerary (dates and hotel names) INSIDE your luggage. The best place is the unlocked front pocket of your nylon luggage. This both helps with identification and ensures that your tropical vacation gear does not get sent back to your home in sub-arctic Michigan mid-vacation.
- Write your email address and phone number on your luggage tag.
- Do NOT put your home address on your luggage tag. This is an open invitation to rogue baggage handlers / thieves who have definitive proof that you are not home. Use an office address if possible or, as stated, above simply put your electronic contact details.
- Differentiate your bag. Reporting a lost, unmarked black ballistic nylon bag is about as helpful as describing an Asian as having dark hair. Popular tricks include putting colored tape on the bottom of the bag, any variety of luggage belts, yarn/ribbon, and other “crafty” solutions. Tacky, but effective!
- Do NOT put fragile stickers on your bag. This essentially broadcasts that there is something valuable to steal (even if there isn’t.) Proper packing can insulate almost any breakable item — and if it’s really that valuable/fragile, you should probably be hand carrying it anyway.
Checking airline baggage tags in advance: Yes, mistakes ARE made on occasion. Ensuring that your bags are going to the right destination is an obvious but frequently overlooked first step. Fully understanding procedures surrounding international transit (Do you have to clear customs with your luggage and drop it off at a separate belt? Or does it automatically transfer through?) is next. Furthermore, if you are traveling an “unusual” route, don’t assume that the airline staff at your departure airport are fully familiar with the policies and procedures at your destination. Ask again on the ground.
2.2: AFTER it is lost.
- Report it EARLY. Don’t wait for the luggage belt to stop — by then there will be scores of people in line at the lost baggage desk. If you’ve seen the same bags go around the loop twice or more, chances are that’s it.
- Note as MANY details as possible on the form. Bag type, dimensions, any other identifying marks make it easier to find your luggage if the airline’s tags have accidentally fallen off. Have your baggage claim stubs handy.
- Politely request that the staff member try to track WHERE your bag is. Knowing that it is safely sitting in a specific airport waiting for shipment on the next flight out is VERY comforting. If it cannot be found, ask about your options (including a stipend for replacing essential items, and potential liability for an irrevocably lost bag.)
- Keep receipts for any items you purchase to replace essential items as they may be claimable.
- Ensure that you know how to track the progress of your bag once you leave the airport. Some airlines have an online system while others will provide you with a contact phone number or email address for updates.
- Make sure that you leave contact information for the delivery driver to reach you, and an appropriate protocol (do you require a signature? Can the bags be left on the front porch?)
- Inform your host / hotel that a bag is expected to be delivered and when it will arrive. This minimizes confusion upon arrival.
3) Electronic / Technology Disasters
Theft or travel destruction of electronics while traveling is a surprisingly common occurrence. I mentioned my own recent phone theft,
- Backup, backup, backup. I always back up my laptop onto an external hard drive before I leave for a trip. What I have neglected to do in the past (and will be far more religious in doing in the future) is to ensure that my phone (and phone photos) are regularly synced to my cloud account. Learn how to back up iPhone, BlackBerry, and Android devices. I am probably the only person on the planet without a tablet, but back that up too!
- Download your camera photos /videos regularly (either to a laptop or even better, onto a cloud account.) I’ve lost more irreplaceable digital photos than I care to admit over my years of travel. 🙁
- Know how your phone tracking software works. Apps like Find My iPhone, Find My Android Phone and BlackBerry Protect make it easier than ever to track your phone and even communicate with the thief / finder. Through a series of messages that the Find My iPhone app allowed me to post on my phone’s home screen, I was able to both threaten and cajole the thief by informing her that if I blocked the phone it would become a useless brick that she couldn’t resell, whereas by returning it to me she could get a reward. Happily this turned out to be an effective approach.
4) Theft / Loss of Valuables
The best solution is not to bring valuables at all. But of course this isn’t always feasible — so keep these tips in mind.
- The in-room hotel safe is NOT your friend. I have countless friends who have lost everything from money to engagement rings and family jewelry by depending on these electronic theft traps. If you happen to be traveling with a lot of cash, irreplaceable documents, or expensive jewelry, call your hotel manager to arrange for these to be stored in the hotel’s business safe. Other things, like your passport, ordinary electronics, and day-to-day jewelry are far safer being locked in your luggage than in the in-room safe.
- Separate your credit cards and cash. Keeping your money and cards in one place may seem like the organized thing to do, but can be catastrophic when someone walks off with your bag/wallet. Make sure that you have at least one emergency credit card and extra cash (preferably in an easily convertible currency like USD or Euros) tucked away in a safe location. Also, in addition to cloud-based backup (I personally use MSecure because of its multi-platform reach) make sure you have the phone numbers of your card companies noted down in a notebook or other safe place so that you can instantly call to cancel/replace your stolen cards.
- Consider whether a wallet is the way to go. Long ago on a trip to Rome, an Italian friend gave me some great advice that I still use to this day when traveling to places renowed for pickpockets. Put your money loose at the bottom of your bag and hold it tightly — that makes it almost impossible for a pickpocket to do a quick “slight of hand” move.
- Have photos of any valuables that you are bringing with you readily available to include with any police / insurance company report.
5) Fine Print / Contractual Issues
Visa Policy: Arriving in Vientiane on a late night flight last month, I found myself in line behind a German tourist who was incredulous that the visa counter did not accept credit cards. Luckily for her, I had extra USD cash on hand and managed to do a quick exchange. Five seconds on the immigration and customs website could have saved here this hassle. China has been known to incarcerate visa overstayers (though they are typically fined). So caveat emptor!
Flight Delays: Most people assume that if a flight delay prevents you from making a connection, that the airline is responsible for finding you an alternative flight at no cost. This is rarely the case if you have booked two separate itineraries independently. When you make travel plans, especially to places notorious for delays, weight the costs and benefits carefully.
Not Checking for Errors: More times than I can count, I’ve found my name misspelled or in the wrong order on airline and train tickets. With heightened security around the world, this simple error could mean that you will not be allowed to travel. Recently in New Zealand, a friend of mine got a notice from the airline that her original connecting flight had been cancelled and, as a result, they had booked her on an alternative flight. This would have been fine in theory, but it turned out that they flight they had rebooked her on departed EARLIER than her originating flight. There was no way humanly possible for her to make it. Given that she had important meetings the next day, this would have been a disaster for her.
6) Force Majeure
Even in my own short life I have lived through some actually scary (Philippine People Power Revolution, Tiananmen Square) and overhyped (Y2K, Indonesia’s remarkably calm 2014 election). I’ve also some close calls (airport bombing in Karachi, typhoons/hurricanes, Sichuan earthquake. It is generally a good practice to register your travel plans with your home embassy to ensure that they update you on evacuation plans should unexpected force majeure incidents impact your travel plans. Most of my friends think this is crazy paranoia, but having been evacuated twice out of two different countries, I feel that two clicks on a website are well worth the peace of mind.
7) Don’t Give Up!
Finally, even when faced with the most intractable policies, never give up. From asking to speak to someone more senior, to approaching a newspaper’s travel ombudsman, better business bureau, or regulatory agency, you may still be able to resolve your problem. And remember that you can catch more flies with honey than vinegar — losing your cool or being insulting/arrogant with staff will far more likely harm than help your case. (Pleading my case with a Jet Star check-in agent in Singapore and getting her sympathy saved me from baggage fees that would have exceeded my ticket price!)
In short, expect the best, prepare for the worst — and either way remember to enjoy your trip! Sometimes the worst travel disasters make the best stories. . .
Welcoming Mark to the Weekend Crossroad Family
I am excited to introduce Mark Johnson as the latest addition to the Weekend Crossroad family. As a contributing blogger, Singapore-based British halfpat Mark will write about his own adventures in travel, sharing tips, anecdotes, and generally help to shake things up. Learn more about Mark here!
Mark and I squish into an angkot in Bogor, Indonesia. Weekend travelers, irrespective of budget, must keep an open mind and adapt to the realities of spontaneous travel. One day we will co-write a post about our adventure to Bogor – a city with almost no cabs — but lots to do!
From the “Indian Archipelago” to the “People of the Indus” – Some Travel Musings
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Just as I have become addicted to batik in Indonesia, I may have gone a bit overboard buying saris in India! Fortunately, I could justify this one as I was unexpectedly invited to a work function and didn’t have a suit with me!
I had always dreamed of going to India, but as a solo, woman traveler, was slightly hesitant. Some were typically cited reasons (safety, harassment, etc.) and some uniquely “me” (reassurance that someone would take care of me when I was inevitably struck by “Delhi Belly”). When P, a British friend/colleague was transferred there — and the end of Ramadan provided a nice long holiday here in Indonesia — it was the perfect opportunity. Which leads me to my own travel manifesto.
Always go somewhere you might never visit but for having a friend there.
The nice thing about being an expat brat, and then a halfpat (an expat without the hefty salary package and perks) is that I always knew people living in the most interesting places — both at home and abroad. I couldn’t believe how few of my friends took me up on the chance to visit Beijing, Shanghai, Kuala Lumpur, and Jakarta. (I did, however, get a lot of visitors to Chicago when I lived there!) For me it’s a no brainer. You get to catch up with an old friend. You get personalized travel ideas from someone who actually knows you. And frequently you can save on lodging costs. Never in a million years would I have thought about going to Malta, which ended up being one of my top 10 all time trips. As did India.
Try to tack on a few days of work (in a local office) to your vacation.
On this trip to India, I was fortunate enough to be working for a company not only with offices in New Delhi and Mumbai, but also amazing colleagues. So I squatted in the office for a few days which was amazing because a) i met some really cool people who gave me great travel advice; b) i strengthened my professional network; and c) i got to deduct the vacation days I spent working, and could take a longer trip as a result. Now I recognize that not all workplaces are this flexible, and not all corporate cultures are welcoming to outsiders. And many people value the ability to shut off completely. But even on trips where I wasn’t working (Rome, Istanbul, Paris) — just popping in and saying hello made a world of difference (and got me a few great meals and new friends as a result!) I also found that I vastly preferred going to the office a few times to being glued to my BlackBerry while ostensibly relaxing.
Try to tack on a few days of vacation to your business trip.
The whole idea for this blog came from the last few years of my career which involved significant amounts of regional travel. You may recognize some of these symptoms:
- Waking up in a Marriott in North America and momentarily forgetting what city you’re in;
- Going to the wrong floor because you’ve stayed in 3-4 different hotels in the space of a week and can’t remember your room number;
- Boasting about having been to a number of exotic locales, only to confess sheepishly that the road between the airport and your hotel was all you saw;
- Having to tell your friends and family when you’re IN town rather than when you’re OUT because it is the rarity, not the norm;
- Realizing that your status updates revolve around which airline lounge you’re in at any given time.
Adding 2-3 days to a business trip either to properly explore the city you’re in, or travel to a nearby destination can be re-energizing and make you feel like you’ve seized a bit of control back over your life. And hey — when the flight’s already covered, why not splurge for a weekend at a nice hotel?
Consider mixing things up rather than staying middle of the road the entire trip.
I’ve written in several places about “low brow high brow” travel, or roughing it on some legs of your trip to enable a once-in-a-lifetime blowout experience. I spent more at the Taj Lake Palace, Udaipur than on all other hotels on this trip combined. But I didn’t regret it for a SECOND. For the same amount of money, I could have stayed at a nice array of 4-5 star hotels for the duration of the trip. But I wouldn’t have the same memories. When I had a much lower budget early on in my career, I stayed at a couple of $7 hotels in Hanoi and ended my trip at the Park Hyatt in Saigon. And staying at a place aptly called The Backpack in Cape Town allowed my friend C and me to splurge on a private safari in Kruger National Park.
Sometimes it’s OK NOT to Listen to People. . .
As I planned out my trip to India, most people “helpfully” told me that it is a big country. The typical rule of thumb is to pick an adjacent area (e.g., Delhi, Punjab and Rajasthan). This, combined with the fact that I wanted to hit a few places that P had not yet visited, led me to plan an itinerary that was a complete mess — but also gave me a nice sampling of both North and South. I also specifically traveled midweek to places I felt would be relatively less stressful (e.g.. Udaipur), while enlisting P’s company for more adventurous places (e.g., Amritsar and the Wagah Border). And Kerala and Tamil Nadu were far more fun with a companion.
. . .But Sometimes It’s Critical.
When my friend C and I went to South Africa, we decided that we did not want to be fraidy cats and the typical dumb American tourists scared of our own shadows. In Joburg, we were quickly disabused of this notion by EVERY LOCAL WE MET. When we met a colleague of his for drinks one night, and he told us that he’d been shot twice — it really struck home. We saved our aimless roaming for Cape Town and Stellenbosch, and only went around Joburg with recommended drivers. And the Apartheid Museum alone made this well worth it!
Do you have any travel principles of your own? Let me know!