My first ever weekend trip from Jakarta was to Bandung, the mountainous capital of West Java. Known alternatively as the Paris of Java, the City of Flowers, or just plain ol’ Bandung, you instantly feel the difference from the hustle and bustle of Jakarta. Especially when you’ve just sat in traffic for 5 hours to get there. No wonder it was a favorite retreat for the Dutch, and to this day features some beautiful colonial architecture.
Our guide has been doing this for a decade. Surely, I said confidently, other people have fallen into muddy, fertilized rice paddies. Oh no, he replied, never before you. . . and even tweeted about it!
While I typically won’t review hotels on this blog — I will write about hotels that I consider to be proper destinations in their own right. The Padma Hotel in Bandung certainly fills this bill. Built into a hillside with stunning vistas, one of the first unique features of the hotel is that the floors descend, rather than rise. You start in the lobby on the top floor (first), and take the elevator down to your room. (The numbering system is counter-intuitive, so many guests, including us, took many a “scenic route” in the elevators.
The pool is simply stunning — though as one would expect, filled with kids during the weekend. You can while away your weekend enjoying brunch with a view, lounging at the pool, or trying the many free outbound activities that they have on the premises, from zip lining to rock climbing.
Padma also offers early morning yoga and hikes around the premises, which involve heading up the mountain (gasp, pant) and then cautiously (in the rainy season) making your way down towards the rice paddies. Or in my case, INTO the rice paddies. Now the way that I tell the story, the guide, holding out his hand to help me navigate a particularly slippery patch, pulled a little too vigorously and toppled us both in to a *FERTILIZED* and irrigated rice paddy. My friend Quint, on the other hand, claims that I barreled down the slope at the speed of a freight train, taking down everything in my path — including our guide. Bless her heart — she ensured that neither of us was injured before laughing hysterically and snapping the photos that you see here. The WORST part was the trudge back to the hotel, covered in mud, and smelling none-too-fragrant. After waiting for 3 elevators (attempting to preserve some dignity by riding to our room alone), we caved in and got in with an unlucky family. They were polite enough not to stare TOO overtly.
It was impossible to look dignified — so the only options were to laugh or cry. We both chose to laugh. Photo: Quint Simon
There are a couple of nice places to eat around Padma, and the city is a short drive away. Now many people will tell you that Bandung is Indonesia’s capital of outlet shopping — needless to say that is NOT one of my recommendations . . .
A couple of hours at Saung Angklung Udjo (Udjo’s House of Angklung) , on the other hand, is one of the most interesting cultural experiences you can have in Indonesia. The angklung, designated a world heritage item by UNESCO in 2010, is comprised of a bamboo frame which supports 2-4 bamboo tubes.
Click here to hear Udjo’s angklungs. (I’ll embed the video once I learn how to use the darn widget!)
At Saung Angklung Udjo, you not only get to enjoy live angklung, wayang golek (puppet) and dance performances, you also get to participate in an audience angklung performance, where you learn to play simple traditional Indonesian melodies, and, in our case, an amazing angklung rendition of Queen’s Bohemian Rhapsody. Sure, parts of it are slightly cheesy. But your admission fee goes to training youths in the art of the angklung and other Indonesian cultural traditions — and the program is led by Udjo’s spirited young grandson. The gift shop has the usual kitsch, but a few treasures as well.
Bandung also offers volcanos, hot springs, and several other sights, but my recommendation is to do as the Bandungers (Bandungese? Bandungians?) do — and take it easy. Or, if you want someone else to pick up the tab, arrange a corporate retreat there and enjoy the atmosphere!